Northern CA (Redwoods NP, Humboldt SP, Lost Coast, etc) Trip Planning Advice

[nikonfan63]

You're going to some of the most beautiful places in California. I stayed in the area for a week in January of 2009 and am dying to go back. First, check out this website for very detailed hiking information:
http://www.redwoodhikes.com/RNP.html

Don't always listen too much to their rating system as it's primarily based on how impressive the old growth redwoods are - however I found the site to be pretty accurate.

For lodging, I highly recommend Ocean Suites Motel in Brookings, OR, which is about 30 minutes north of Crescent City, right across the border:
http://www.oceansuitesmotel.com/Index.htm

The rates are very reasonable for what you get: no more than $100 a night for a full suite (bed, sofa, recliner, kitchen area, two tvs, etc.), nice owners, and high speed internet. I decided to only try it for a few days and ended up spending a whole week there I liked it so much. Definitely worth the extra 30 minute drive down across the border into California to stay here, IMO. Brookings seems to be a nicer place than Crescent City. Gas is also a fair amount cheaper in Oregon - just remember it's not self-serve! Within 5 minutes of the motel is a fish/chips place called "the Hungry Clam" that is also very good after a long day's hike.

There are a few locations and hiking paths you must know about. I never got around to the Del Norte SP or the National Redwood parks, so others will have to fill in for those.

Jedediah State Park
http://www.redwoodhikes.com/Jed%20Sm...d%20Smith.html
First, get to Howland Hill Road. Read information in the above link for instructions. As someone mentioned earlier, it's one of the best short drives you'll ever experience in your life. It's like visiting another place and time. In the park there are two important places to visit:
1. Stout Grove - This is the first turnoff you'll find if you're approaching the park from the North. It's a short circular hike, but it's got some very impressive old growth trees and has a nice river running right by it.
2. The Boy Scout Tree Trail - This is a five mile out and back hike that features a wide variety of old growth trees, and a very nice waterfall at the end that you can climb up. The trailhead has some parking space along the side of Howland Hill Road. Keep an eye out for the trailhead sign and you can't miss it.

Prairie Creek Park
http://www.redwoodhikes.com/Prairie%...e%20Creek.html
To drive through the park, you must take the Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway exit off of 101N/101S. You will come to a large meadow area where you can park your car and also camp. This is where the trailhead for the below hike (and numerous others) begins.

Two important places:
1. The James Irvine Trail (http://www.redwoodhikes.com/Prairie%20Creek/Miners.html)
This is a 12 mile hike that loops from the center of the park, out to the coastline, goes through Fern Canyon (see below), and heads back to the trailhead. The geography is very diverse, and you MUST do this trail if you're serious about redwood hiking. MUST!
2. Fern Canyon - To get to Fern Canyon, take Davison Road exit from Highway 101N/101S and drive 8 miles to the end of the gravel road. Beware that there are streams of water your car will have to drive through to get to the parking area. Unless your car is a real low rider, you shouldn't have any problems. Beware they probably charge a day use fee ($5). Star Wars and a few other famous movies were supposedly shot in Fern Canyon - it's that good. You've got 50 foot canyon walls just covered with beautiful ferns and a nice stream heading through the center - bring your boots. The aforementioned James Irvine Trail loop also heads through this canyon and climbs up out of it at the end, so you can avoid driving out to the canyon and combine it with the hike if you prefer.

Hopefully that gives you a few ideas. PLEASE check out that redwood hikes page, as it really helped me in planning my trip. You've chosen a great place to go, and I always tell people about it with great enthusiasm when they ask. Here are a few casual images from the trip (digital only at the time, sorry!): http://www.flickr.com/photos/13574854@N02/

[Bruce Watson]

I lucked out and managed to find myself in northern California for a few days. Followed some of the advice from this thread. Y'all know your stuff!

I'll add my voice to those advocating the Howland Hill Road. It's full of pot holes this time of year, some of them big (they grade in summer), but just drive slowly and watch what you are doing and you should be fine even in a small sedan. Wouldn't advise trailers or campers on this road though -- it's a small one lane wide in spots.

I've sampled Del Norte, Jedediah Smith, and Prairie Creek so far. My favorite is Prairie Creek. Hard to find a bad trail here -- awsome trees and trails abound.

Prairie Creek contains the James Irvine Trail -- one of the best trails I've ever been on (in 35+ years of hiking). Amazing views of the trees and their forest. At each and every turn. From valley floor to ridge line. And some nice footing (mostly dirt and redwood duff, hardly any rocks or roots). Trails along Prairie Creek are all good too. For example Brown Creek trail off of South Fork trailhead -- amazing easy hike along a creek that will knock your socks off at just about every turn in the path.

Heading to Humbolt next! LF photography heaven, this is.

[Vaughn]

Another good hike in Prairie Creek is the West Ridge Trail, but like you said, there are no bad ones.

Vaughn

[greeceplan]

Thank you all for this useful information .

[JeffKohn]

Thank you all for this useful information .

Yes I agree, lots of good info here. Looking forward to putting it to use later this month when we visit. I ended up booking two nights in Fortuna, and five nights in Klamath. Seems like there's just more to do farther north.

Any can't-miss sunset spots on the coast for when it's not fogged in?

[Vaughn]

Fortuna is sort of an inbetween place -- not a whole lot there (except a great brewpub), but not too far north of the Humboldt Redwoods State Park to make it a quick trip down to the redwoods there (the Ave of the Giants starts about 20 miles south of there). It is also a good place to base an all-day drive and exploration of the Lost Coast -- to ("the Victorian village of") Ferndale, then the Wildcat Road to the coast, then to Petrolia (site of the first oil well in California), along the Mattole River to Honeydew, then over the hill and through some great redwoods to HWY 101 and then back north to Fortuna. A slow drive with lots of photo opportunities. About 100 miles and about 4 hours driving time.

Sunset spots -- anywhere between Westhaven and Trinidad on Scenic Road (not HWY 101). Get off at the Westhaven exit, go under the highway and turn right.

Enjoy!

[JeffKohn]

Yes, Humboldt Redwoods SP was the main reason for spending a couple nights in Fortuna, along with maybe checking out Ferndale. Thanks for the tip on Wildcat Rd/Petrolia/Honeydew/etc

[Bruce Watson]

Yes, Humboldt Redwoods SP was the main reason for spending a couple nights in Fortuna, along with maybe checking out Ferndale. Thanks for the tip on Wildcat Rd/Petrolia/Honeydew/etc

Best place to stay for Humbolt Redwoods SP might just be in Miranda -- the Miranda Gardens. Excellent location just south of the park right on the Avenue of the Giants. I've stayed there twice now (once eight years ago, once last week) and both my wife and I really like it.

[Vaughn]

Just be aware of the poison oak amongst the redwoods down in Humboldt Redwoods State Park (none up in Prairie Creek redwoods)!

[Drew Wiley]

I was out shooting in the redwoods a couple days ago, and some picknickers were letting their kids run around in shorts through the foliage, which contained quite a bit
of poision oak and nettles. The other thing to be constantly aware of is that lighting
ratios in the redwoods can often be extreme, so it helps to have a film with a very
long straight line. The wildflowers are just barely beginning on the coast, but it's certainly a very beautiful time of the year. Raining hard today, despite the weatherman's forecast it wouldn't. Those big redwood can be almost like an umbrella,
however, sheltering one from wind and rain. I really enjoy redwood forests in rainstorms, and the light can be simply magic.