Regluing bellows to plastic frame?

[awldune]

My new Cambo bellows is coming unglued from its hard plastic frame in one spot. Any suggestions for what sort of glue would be best to repair it?

I guess that the bellows material is vinyl and I really don't know what sort of hard plastic the frame is made of.

On a related note, the bellows seems sort of dry. Should it be oiled or otherwise treated to make it more supple?

Thanks,
Sam

[ic-racer]

Probably 'contact' cement.
The kind you appy to both sides, partially dry, then press together.

[GPS]

Very good advice! But let it dry, the parts with dry glue on it hold better then. People often have the impression that they should press the parts together when the glue is just partially dry (it holds "better" on fingers!) but the truth is that the contact cement surface holds much better on each other if dry.

[John Schneider]

Probably 'contact' cement.
The kind you appy to both sides, partially dry, then press together.

Pliobond, probably the best of this type of adhesive, recommends two coats, and then pressing the two parts together while the glue is still somewhat wet.

[awldune]

Pliobond, probably the best of this type of adhesive, recommends two coats, and then pressing the two parts together while the glue is still somewhat wet.

Thanks, can I get Pliobond at Lowes/Home Depot?

[JRFrench]

Very good advice! But let it dry, the parts with dry glue on it hold better then. People often have the impression that they should press the parts together when the glue is just partially dry (it holds "better" on fingers!) but the truth is that the contact cement surface holds much better on each other if dry.

This man speaks the truth. If you are impatient then you often end up with a 2nd rate bond. Generally you have to let them dry until tacky, IE you can touch the glue with your finger without it getting wet. If you do this you get a great bond, be careful when squeezing together tho as you only get one shot. When I was making the bellows for my camera I used Ados contact adhesive, and on the last bit of glueing I stuck the inner down in the wrong place, tried to reposition it and pulled the light tight lining off the fabric *doh*. Turned out OK as it was near the end and I had to shorten them anyway.

[Drew Wiley]

Barge cement. The same stuff shoe repairmen use. Most old-fashioned hardware
stores sell it. Doesn't get brittle like contact cements, which also often have the seriously adverse effect of an excess of toluene solvent which will melt vinyl.

[Glenn Thoreson]

Contact cement is probably the best thing to use. Be aware, however, that solvent based cement will adversely affect vinyl. Use the water based kind by Weldwood, et al. For a secure bond, roughen the plasic a bit wih sand paper, apply the cement to both surfaces and let dry completely. Your finger should not stick to it when ready. Carefully join the parts, being absolutely sure they're where you want them. As soon as they touch, they're stuck. Period. You can use little slips of paper between surfaces and pull them out as you go, to precisely position the parts. Contact cement, when dry and ready won't stick to the paper. Only itself.