post your urban landscapes

[saturnus]

5x7
korona

[gsinico]

Hi Giovanni,

I don't know you so please don't be insulted by the question: are you new only to the Tetenal kit or to shooting LF chromes in general? It's very easy to get underexposure by forgetting bellows compensation, and a scene doesn't need to be focused particularly closely to need 1/3 or 1/2 a stop extra; it's the sort of error that'd be invisible/irrelevant on a negative, but annoying on a chrome. Maybe your shutter is slightly fast? Obviously disregard this if you have great results when using a pro lab on your E6 sheets and the issue is limited to your use of the Tetenal kit.


yess, I'm a little "experienced" in shooting trans, so, no mistakes.
I'm beginner in developing myself E6 in tetenal-3 kit.

I use the Fuji E6 kit and have never tried the Tetenal. I found exposure/density/etc came out identically with LF (Jobo 3010) as it does in 120 (Jobo 2xxx reels) as long as I don't take the additional opportunities to screw up exposure.

[RHITMrB]

I get itchy when I haven't posted in this thread in a while. Here's another substation.


Loring Substation by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr

edit: huzzah! My hundredth post on this forum.

[RHITMrB]

Another from the same photowalk with Lucas. I'm surprised to be faster at scanning than him for once...


Calportland by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr

[K. Praslowicz]

One from January. 8x10 Dorf. 250/6.7 Fuji

[RHITMrB]

And another.


K. F. Jacobsen & Co. by Isaac Sachs, on Flickr

[Ramiro Elena]

Hey Isaac, what's your approach when doing night scenes? Do you start off with a fixed aperture? How do you measure the scene, incident reading or spot readings of several zones? Seems like you nail every single exposure.

[RHITMrB]

Thanks Charlotte!

Hey Isaac, what's your approach when doing night scenes? Do you start off with a fixed aperture? How do you measure the scene, incident reading or spot readings of several zones? Seems like you nail every single exposure.

Well, the first secret of being a good photographer is to not show people your bad shots

That said, I'm almost always at f/22 or f/32 to balance DOF and exposure time. I spot meter the really important parts of the subject (in these cases a lit part of the substation not right next to a light source, the dome, and the pavement in front of the truck, respectively), then add 2-3 stops for reciprocity failure and tend to end up with exposure times between 2 and 5 minutes. It also helps that Portra 400 is a very, very forgiving film. The neg for the substation photo is somewhat thin (probably by a stop and a half or so), but it scans alright.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Terry, I love the depth of focus and image management. Nice job! I hope you don't mind me reposting your image... I couldn't figure out how to also wrap it in quotes...

Re: post your urban landscapes
Fresno, Ca. - early 1980's ( building long gone now ). This was right across the street from the railyards - so aptly named.

Camera - Sinar F
Lens - 90mm super angulon
Film - Agfapan 25 Attached Thumbnails

[Ramiro Elena]

Thanks Charlotte!



Well, the first secret of being a good photographer is to not show people your bad shots

That said, I'm almost always at f/22 or f/32 to balance DOF and exposure time. I spot meter the really important parts of the subject (in these cases a lit part of the substation not right next to a light source, the dome, and the pavement in front of the truck, respectively), then add 2-3 stops for reciprocity failure and tend to end up with exposure times between 2 and 5 minutes. It also helps that Portra 400 is a very, very forgiving film. The neg for the substation photo is somewhat thin (probably by a stop and a half or so), but it scans alright.

Thanks! 2-3 stops wow. I would have never thought it would eat up up 3. It's overall really nice work.