Subjective Comparison of Several Fiber Based Papers

[John Powers]

Richard Wasserman just posted this over on APUG. I will be printing 16x20 Kentmere FBVC next school term from 8x10 negatives. It looked like a less expensive way to proof the negatives before enlarging.

"I was wandering about Badgers website last night and stumbled upon 8x10 Kentmere Fineprint paper in the used gear area–it's actually a close-out, not used paper. $35.00 per 100 sheet box, just about 1/2 price. Just a heads-up, I'm not affiliated with them, but am a very happy customer.

https://www.badgergraphic.com/store/..._detail&p=3181
__________________
___________________________________________

Richard Wasserman"

Thanks Richard.

John

[jeroldharter]

Having done similar tests years ago on papers, many of which are no longer available, I commend you, and appreciate how much work you just went to. Kudos! Outstanding!

The curious can download my now-far-outdated results from my web site for free.

Bruce,

Thanks for the link. I remember reading those articles when first published and really enjoyed them. You did a much better and more thorough job than I. I had a day to burn in the darkroom and did what I could. I did not compare developers or test drydown.

Have you thought about doing a repeat with the current papers and developers? That would be great especially with scanned prints showing the differences. I would pay for that!

Jamie

[Toyon]

Even worse than the dry down problem, is the effect of UV protective glass. I find I lose about a stop every time I mount a print behind glass. Ugghh.

[Ed Pierce]

Thanks Jerold for taking the time to share your findings.

I'm curious why you didn't include Seagull VC...

[Drew Wiley]

I'm re-learning my papers too. Kentmere VCFB is very impressive and has none of the coating inconsistencies that it had a couple years back. For cold-tone work I like it
better than either Forte Polygrade V or Seagull G, which I considered very fine papers. Been using Ilford Multigrade warmtone for subjects appropriate for the tone. Want to try the new MCC warmtone; although I wasn't especially happy with it when Agfa made it, I have since learned quite a few tricks which warrant another run. In the old days, when I wanted warm, I used Portriga. I've got quite a few other papers on hand,
but Kentmere VCFB is probably the one I'll use the most of.

[jeroldharter]

Thanks Jerold for taking the time to share your findings.

I'm curious why you didn't include Seagull VC...

I just ordered packets of 25 sheets of as many 8x10 papers as were available at Freestyle. The Oriental might have been an oversight in that I just used the warmtone version. I would have included Berger if available. Some of the papers: Oriental Warmtone and Adox MCC 110 were on backorder at the time. I did not do any of the Arista papers either. They are nice but they change suppliers so often that I don't want to be beholden to them. As it stands, whatever paper I like best disappears within 2-3 years anyway.

The Oriental warmtone is a nice paper though. When my Polywarmtone is gone, I will probably use that.

[rcjtapio]

I also want to thank you for your insight. Another criterion that I may suggest to add in your evaluation is the ability to bleach. I currently use the Ilford MG IV glossy which I like, but it doesn't beach very well. Eliminating this tool in my bag of tricks has made me consider trying the Kentmere paper, but I'm not sure if it is compatable with bleaching. Maybe someone out there knows.

Rick Tapio

[jeroldharter]

Good point. I did not think of testing bleaching. I suppose papers differ like toning but it would be hard to say much beyon "a little" or a lot" and I suppose it would just depend on the strength of the bleach.

As a Kentmere user I can tell you that it responds very well to potassium ferricyanide bleach.