Replacing leather on camera: how hard?

[Ben Calwell]

Since I can't afford a new, lighter 5x7, I've decided to try and re-ignite the romance with my old and heavy Linhof 5x7 by dressing her in some new leather or leatherette. What's on there now is not original, and it's starting to come loose. I don't exactly have the hands of surgeon -- would this be a tedious job best left to professionals? Thanks for comments.

[Neal Shields]

Been there, done that, got the T shirt.

Get camera leather. Thin. Get it pre cut if you can but I doubt if you can.

Sources of leather are, if I remember correctly Camera leather and Microtools.

Pull the old leather off.

Mask the area with masking tape.

Cut the masking tape out with an razor knife.

Put the masking tape on the leather and cut the leather out with a sharp pair of sizzors.

Use either 3M double sided mounting tape, or Pliobond contact cement to glue the leather down, (or buy leather with peal off backing if possiable)

Note: I will try to get you the exact part number for the correct 3m mounting tape when I get home.

For the knob inserts I used a compass with a razzor blade in place of the pen and cut out paper till I got the exact size and then cut the leather.

To look right, it has to be perfect.

I am a klutz and mine looks very good but it took me 12 hours!!!!! on a Technica 5

[Frank Petronio]

My leather came off my old Tech 4 easily, and then I just cleaned it up and used it, all bare aluminum. It looked pretty cool actually.

[Juergen Sattler]

Hi Ben,

I restore these cameras as a hobby and have done numerous Linhof Technikas.

Get the leather from Microtools - the Maroccon leather - not the leatherette (you'll probably need at least 2sqft).
Also from Microtools get Pliobond - it is a glue which works great for putting leather on a metal camera.
Buy one of those headbands with loupes in them - you'll need it to get it right
Lift the old leather with a knife very carefully - they make it easier to get an exact copy.
Use an exacto knife to cut the leather - for the straight lines
For holes and curves use one of those bended scissors - the ones you would use for you toe nails work great
The rest is patience - make sure you get the corners right - they are not straight, but rounded off - that's important.

Have fun and good luck:

Juergen

[Ben Calwell]

Thanks, fellows. I might give it a whirl, and Frank, I like your idea.

[Ernest Purdum]

Many years ago I encountered a bookbinder who had an excellent selection of leathers and did beautful work. He said covering a camera was easier than binding a book.

[Rob Vinnedge]

I used the self adhesive black leatherette from www.micro-tools.com ,#4040 or 4056-2 I can't remember which, to restore the tan leatherette on my 5x7 Technika V. After cleaning off all the old glue and buffing out the the metal with a commercial grade aluminum polish, I then used the old leatherette as a template and carefully cut out the new pieces. Application was clean and easy, since the new leatherette was self adhesive. I wouldn't bother with the pliobond method. I've used my beautiful refurbished camera for two years, now, and nothing has come loose, even in hot weather.-Hope this helps.

[Jon Wilson]

Has anyone had any experience in replacing the leather on older wood cameras, such as an old leather covered graflex or conley camera? Any recommendations on the best way to accomplish this task or is it something best left undone? Thanks for any assistance and thoughts on this possible project I am considering. Jon

[resummerfield]

My leather came off my old Tech 4 easily, and then I just cleaned it up and used it, all bare aluminum. It looked pretty cool actually.

I removed the vinyl inserts from my Tech 5x7, with the intention of recovering it in real leather. But after cleaning and polishing the aluminum frame, I just left it bare. Like Frank said, it does look pretty cool.

[Paul Ewins]

Jon, I've recovered an old Graphic, but I'm not sure whether my efforts are an advertisement for doing it or not doing it:



It is actually pretty easy. The old leather usually comes off cleanly and can then be used for a template for the new leather. The only hard part is the bulge in the door/bed which required a form to clamp the leather in place as the glue dried. Regular contact cement works fine.