Restoring a Century Universal 8x10

[imagedowser]

Having one of these great boxes, in very avg shape, i'm going to do the same, using your exp as a jump off point/ref. Can't thank you enough. Bill

[Michael Roberts]

Okay, so two applications of Zip Strip to the painted brass hardware got off most of the paint, but underneath seemed to be a blackish coat--maybe a primer??

Anyway, here are the results...

[Michael Roberts]

I haven't had much success cleaning tarnished brass with steel wool, so my preferred method is to sand the tarnish off with very fine 220 grit sandpaper. Light sanding (so as not to gouge the metal) takes the tarnish off fast and leaves the metal with what to me is a nice, "brushed" look.

On another task, I made a template from the three sections of the old leather handle, and took the template to the shoe repair shop so they can make a replacement handle. Should be ready in a week or so.

3rd pic here is the new replacement knurled knob for the second extension.

So far, I've started cleaning the brass from the back of the camera and the brass base rail. I'm leaving the aluminum and the brass on the front standard for later so I don't get overwhelmed.

At this point, I'm strongly considering painting the aluminum parts a glossy black.

News note: thanks to Rich, using the serial number on the front inside of the base, I learned this camera was part of a batch of 100 started into production in November 1935....so probably assembled in 1936 (by my guess).

[John Jarosz]

This may be considered a dumb question: Are you sure those parts are aluminum? Back in 1935 aluminum was still considered pretty exotic. I'm surprised it would be used for camera parts that could easily be made from steel. Have you tried a magnet on them?

John

[Michael Roberts]

John, you are dead on. I was going on other people's descriptions of the camera. Just tried the magnet test--yes, this is definitely steel, not aluminum. There's not much steel compared to the amount of brass. So far the steel components consist of two oblong pieces that function as washers for the big brackets that connect the back to the base, rails for the second and third extensions, and supports for the front standard (these fit on the back uprights).

[Michael Roberts]

Having one of these great boxes, in very avg shape, i'm going to do the same, using your exp as a jump off point/ref. Can't thank you enough. Bill

Bill, thanks for the feedback. I've been a bit worried I might be monopolizing the air time, so I appreciate the encouragement to keep going with this....

[Jim Michael]

220 grit is awfully coarse. From a recent adventure polishing some aluminum, a good route to take might be 600 -> 1500 -> 2000 grit followed by jewelers rouge on a buffing wheel. Although I'd be a bit surprised if the black didn't come off just with the last step or two. Auto parts stores should have the 2000 grit wet/dry paper if your hardware store doesn't.

[John Jarosz]

Since they are steel, you could copper plate them or use black oxide. There are instructions all over the net on how to do it.

John

[Michael Roberts]

220 grit is awfully coarse. From a recent adventure polishing some aluminum, a good route to take might be 600 -> 1500 -> 2000 grit followed by jewelers rouge on a buffing wheel. Although I'd be a bit surprised if the black didn't come off just with the last step or two. Auto parts stores should have the 2000 grit wet/dry paper if your hardware store doesn't.

Jim, thanks very much for the tip. I'll check out the auto parts store next week when I return from Seattle.

[Michael Roberts]

Since they are steel, you could copper plate them or use black oxide. There are instructions all over the net on how to do it.

John

Interesting idea, John. finishing.com seems to have some easy to understand info. Might be a bit more complicated than I want to get into right now. OTOH, I could have a finishing shop do the work....I'll think on it.