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Thread: Flourescent lighting

  1. #1

    Flourescent lighting

    I plan to use the existing flourescent lights in an aircraft interior as the onl y source of light for the camera. (4x5/90mm lens) I plan to use Provia 100F, NP S 160 and I will do some test shots on Polacolor PRO 100 all with a Hoya FLD to correct for the flourescent light. My client would like color prints and digital files for printing large display photos. Shooting landscapes for many years this is my first attempt at using this type o f artificial light. Your opinions on what kind of results I might achieve with with the above mention combination of film, light and filter would be very much welcomed as well as your suggestions on how you might do it! Thanks in advance to all responders.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Location
    Farmington, MI
    Posts
    206

    Flourescent lighting

    Use NPL instead of NPS. Do not use a filter with the NPL, it will handle the fluorescent well without one due to it's extra emulsion layer. The FLD filter for the other films may be better than nothing, but the right way to do it is to find out what type of fluorescent lamps (warm white, cool white, etc.) are in the space, then start with color compensating filter combinations as recommended in various published tables (mostly for Kodak). I think you will get the best results color wise from the unfiltered NPL.

  3. #3

    Flourescent lighting

    Of course, each flavor of flourescent is different, but the most common is Cool White and generally an FLD or 30M gel is close. Also visit this excellend site b y William Crockett (he is or was sponsored by Fuji so you will find great specs on Fuji films). http://www.shootSMARTER.com/pages/CCCG.html With color NPS neg film, because of the 4th layer, correction is almost optional with this grea t film.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Posts
    522

    Flourescent lighting

    I think I'd go with NPS for this, unfiltered (especially if there's any available daylight leaking in as well...If you can easily get at the tubes themselves, consider using magenta Rosco gels on the lamps, either in tube sleeves, or just cut sheets for the fixtures. usually this will come close in correcting the green of the tube....(note: come close). I,personally, don't use any polacolor materials for color proofing, but do use alot of Type 55 for exposure/focus checks. You can also try to add some supplemental light this way, by using magenta gels on the flourescents, and using a "plus green" Rosco gel on a strobe. Or, with NPL, there's a corresponding set of tungsten/ flourescent gels as well. Then to complicate things more...there are combos of CC gels and ND filters as well...which might be handy for balancing ambient light. It's probably best to keep it simple....

  5. #5

    Flourescent lighting

    Hi Dan, Definately use a fld filter when using pcpro100, it will print green due to the lights.

    Bill

  6. #6

    Flourescent lighting

    Fluorescent guys as in fluoridation for fewer cavities. George Nedleman DDS

  7. #7

    Flourescent lighting

    Actually George it is Flourescense, and it is Flourination, not Flouridation ( the act of adding Flourine to something)as in Chlorination, etc.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Posts
    522

    Flourescent lighting

    No...actually I think he's right. Hey, what can I can say, we're "visual"...just remember, you shoot daylight it looks green...actually it's going to look funky on any type of film, unfiltered.

  9. #9

    Flourescent lighting

    i'll assume you were joking but it is fluorescent. and there is nothing wrong with fluoridate or fluoridation - adding fluoride to something, like toothpaste, exactly as fluorinate is adding of fluorine. i don't know what flouridate or flourinate could mean.

  10. #10

    Flourescent lighting

    Could that be the same as urinate?? Nahh......:-))

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