Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I'm going to start using X-ray. I found you all need to strip one side of the emulsion after exposure. How to do it? Any one can help to detail explain the exact process of development of X-Ray film(green sensitive)?

I don't know, but there have been several post about it here on LFF. Use the search function. The image I posted has not been stripped. I don't see the need? I try to KISS!

[Corran]

The image I posted though was stripped.

There are posts about it but the quick and dirty is, lay the sheet on a piece of glass, with whatever side you want to keep down touching the glass. Use painters tape to tape it securely with no gaps (I use extra on the rounded corners). Then brush bleach on lightly. I use a foam brush I bought for $1 at Lowes. I also use bleach watered down 1:1. Carefully wash. And you're done!

[Randy]

You might take a look at this thread. Someone probably discusses it there. I read it months ago but can't remember for sure. I know some do not bother striping one side, they just leave it. I purchased a box of the green sensitive a while back but have not done any experimenting myself. One of these days...?

[jon.oman]

And here's a sneak-peek:
(Taken with Fuji Super HR-T with Nikon 300mm f/9 @ f/45 for 2 seconds and developed in Rodinal 1:100 for 6 minutes)

This is a great image!

[gchu1970]

Thanks for all information here. I'm going to strat my test soon.

[Corran]

Thank you! I did do a contact print last night and I am quite happy with the finished product.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Click on Randy's link, then go to page 11.

[gbogatko]

How to strip - at least it works for me!!
One note, I'm now shooting at ISO 50 -- and then stripping.
"Smush" using a cheap 2 inch brush.

Stripping reduces the contrast. Imagine exposing two pin registered negs and then trying to print with both of them against the paper. That's what the double coated x-ray is like. And if you're shooting at 80, then you're definitely getting density on both sides. The stuff does NOT have an anti-halation coating and for all I know is just a single coating on either sides. Just like the first films.

I shoot the green stuff at iso 200. "green" acts like blue/green sensitive (orthochromatic), and blue means only blue sensitive. Blue looks VERY old school, zero sky detail. Both give results that look like stuff from the silent film days. Both work very well with soft focus lenses -- much closer to the film for which the lenses were designed.

If you've gotten used to developing the stuff by inspection, you'll be disappointed the first time you strip off one side and see almost 1/2 your density disappear leaving a grainy mess. I just arrived at this point. Develop by inspection is wierd because one thinks they're overdoing it. I'll have to get a feel for the 'right look' if I'm going to strip off one side.

"Stripping" consists of pasting the film to a piece of glass (larger than the neg) using blue painter's tape, spritzing clorox all over it, then smushing around the clorox until all the emulsion is gone. Wash it off and take a look. If you're lucky, it's all gone, but most times there'll be stuff left behind (it looks like really bad mottle). A 2nd spritz and smush gets the rest. The painter's tape is what keeps the clorox away from the 'good' side, so pay attention to how you paste the the neg down.

Stripping is an artistic decision. X-ray has a really unique look. Sometimes it's appropriate, and sometimes it isn't. I stripped a shot taken with a soft lens that looked right out of a pictorial book. Then I stripped off one side and it looked awful. Practice, practice, practice.

I'll put up some of my stuff later tonight when I get back home.

George

[EdWorkman]

AND if you happen to be ham-fisted like me, and
IF you can scratch the emulsion ONLY on one side, the scratches go away with the stripping, I asked and it was confirmed

[dsphotog]

Which Xray film (blue or green) for the most pleasing & natural skintones in portraits?