Thank you for the break-down premortho. If you have 70 years of experience, you started with 15 and are 85? Then you have 5 years more experience than my father.
I’m using a faint distant (behind the shoulder) darkroom red bulb and a flexible "torch" that I taped a Schott RG 2 filter (1% cut-off 622nm, higher than Kodak GBX-2) in front of, to be able to shine a less faint spot onto the table and move the tray into and out of the spot.
I’m able to develop by eye to a similar level of global exposure. But I’m still trying to figure out, which EI I should pick. I think 25 is reasonable in terms of practicality. But in my next example I also used EI 6 (far left) and got yet more detail in the shadow.
Of course I will keep your method with the shadow detail and the long water stop in mind for the next time. Until now stop bath for me meant a rapid complete stop. Your idea is interesting. Perhaps this will give me that shadow detail.
That’s my problem. The box doesn’t say anything. There’s no box. Just 138 brown envelopes. So I made a series 6, 10, 25, 50, 100 and developed them by eye to a "normal" global density. How do I pick the best combination? By taste?
Your points about the color of light are interesting. I have a Sekonic digital meter and the manual doesn’t list its spectral sensitivity. I want to shoot indoors and have a fairly daylight looking surface light. But I’m sure it goes towards the red end. Any tips about how much compensation "daylight color" fluorescent lights need? How about tungsten?
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