I've used D-76 with green sensitive xray film, it works just fine. Xray film is easily scratched, though, so handle with kid gloves, or perhaps baggies.
I've used D-76 with green sensitive xray film, it works just fine. Xray film is easily scratched, though, so handle with kid gloves, or perhaps baggies.
Do you have a link?i just found a chinese site that has 8x10 for .17 a sheet...
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/andy8x10
Flickr Site: https://www.flickr.com/photos/62974341@N02/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/andrew.oneill.artist/
Do anybody know any place to make orders about x-ray films here in Europe?
These look pretty good. There seems to be a number of types of 100 NIF emulsions.
Are any of these designations on the film? (No, I don't know what they mean, I just found them with Google.)
AX(Q-AX)
MG-SR(G-S)
C Type (Q-CT)
He-Ne Laser Image Film
LP-670T (QHN-670T)
Mammography Film
CM-H (Q-CMH)
http://www.zzmedical.com/zencart/8x1...ilm-p-384.html T2 Blue RX is what I'm using.
I have used the Fuji blue x ray film the higher speed stuff (Fuji RX Full Speed Blue Film)and shot it at 800 then developed it in Diafine with Saran wrap in the bottom of the trays to prevent scratches, with excellent results. I tried shooting it at 200 its supposed speed and developing with HC110 mixture B and it came out like crap. Too too dark. Has anyone tried this with Hc110 and got good results?
I always found that B was too "hot" for [forTriX]
Dilute it more if you can't cut development time.
"its supposed speed"- is a starting point, not a standard
Strip or don't strip, but if it's not boiler plate [assuming "too dark" means a dense neg, not a print from a very thin neg] try a print to see what you really have
Bookmarks