Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[Michael R]

If the price of Ilford ID-11 is lower, use that. It is the same formula as D-76. Or you can mix your own D-23 (only two compounds plus water), which is functionally very close to D-76. XTOL and its various clones from other manufacturers are also functionally very close to D-76. XTOL can be used in a replenishment regime too. Just some options.

The problem with D76 is that Kodak raised the price dramatically. It was 4€ for the to make-1l powder few years ago, now it is around 8€...
And I really like D76 over HC110.

[Edison]

The problem with D76 is that Kodak raised the price dramatically. It was 4€ for the to make-1l powder few years ago, now it is around 8€...
And I really like D76 over HC110.

The cost may have come down. I get it for $9.95 per gallon. 3785ml / 25ml per sheet = 151 sheets or $.07 per 4x5.

$28 per box of RX-N (400 4x5s).



PS I’m also diluting currently at 1:2 so 200ml out of the 600ml of working solution takes care of 8 sheets in a tray.

[Roberto Nania]

If the price of Ilford ID-11 is lower, use that. It is the same formula as D-76. Or you can mix your own D-23 (only two compounds plus water), which is functionally very close to D-76. XTOL and its various clones from other manufacturers are also functionally very close to D-76. XTOL can be used in a replenishment regime too. Just some options.

That was one option. Metol is at around 34€ for 100gr (I bet in US is way more cheaper). It will give around 26 sessions of 1 liter working solution in 1+1 diluition.

[Edison]

Some success with HR-U. I shot it at 25, 50, and 100. Developed D76 1:2 for 7 minutes. I'm pretty sure the order of these is 25 50 100 but it's hard to tell the second two. I also shot one with a yellow filter at iso 3 and it still came out very under exposed. I'm going to try a new yellow filter test when I can.

Obviously I need to work on being more careful handling the film. I'm using a rotatrim to cut (and this one I tried 3 sheets at once, I assume that's how I got so many scratches this time.)

I'm going to try wearing nitrile gloves during the cutdown process, loading process, and development process. It was also suggested a flat bottomed tray will help. I'll look for a set, or 3 5x7 sheets of glass. I'm curious to how flipping through a stack of 8 will go with the flat bottom. I'm worried the bottom one will stick.

I'm very happy with the results overall with HR-U. RX-N has a dreamy look but HR-U looks pretty realistic. Thanks for all the help so far (on page 278/629).

[Edison]

Checkers

Fuji RX-N at 25iso in d76 1:2 for 7 minutes

[Bob Wagner]

My experience: plexiglass in the bottom of each tray, process one sheet at a time, mix D-23 from bulk chemicals, gentle tray rocking for agitation, cover tray during development because HRU is more sensitive to safelight than you might expect

[Andrew O'Neill]

Am I the only one using D-23? I've used a gazillion developers over the years with XRAY films, and it has been my favourite so far. D-23 1+1, 1+2.
Bob, plexi on the bottom of ribbed trays is a great idea. I did that (actually with plate glass because heavier), until I got my hands on a few flat-bottomed trays. Before the plate glass technique, I used giant ziplock bags. Film inserted, developer poured in (pyrocat-hd back in those days). Worked well but had to puff in a bit of air to keep the plastic from settling on the film during rest period. I didn't like my lips getting that close to the developer... neither did my wife!
I prefer flat-bottomed trays, but are they EVER expensive new. Got mine second hand... Thanks for the safelight warning... I'll be cracking open my box of HRU in the very near future. My ceiling hung amber coloured safelight has worked well with several different brands, so I'm hoping HRU will, too. Cheers!

[Daniel Unkefer]

Checkers

Fuji RX-N at 25iso in d76 1:2 for 7 minutes

Looks good. I have a box of RX-N, I will need to give it a go. I like the Legacy Microdol-X as it restrains and lengthens the development time. I have gone as long as eighteen minutes at 60F in replenished Mic-X. A gallon will last you many years of use I have found. So very economical

Daylight color is also a factor. HRU is most sensitive at straight up high noon light. As the light becomes more orangish later in the day, the exposures need to be increased. Take copious notes and keep going. Handling without scratching is a huge issue. I have not scratched any film while it is still dry. It scratches uber uber easy when wet. Best to bracket while you are getting your handle on this. I shoot dupes I don't want any scratches


Ashton Pond Norma Handy HRU Mic-X 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Ashton Pond Columbus Ohio Sinar Norma Handy 4x5 Fuji HR-U XRay 65mm F8 at F22 Schneider CF + Sinar Norma Dark Yellow 103mm Glass Disk 1 sec at F22 Legacy Mic-X replenished stock in Cesco flat bottom tray 18 mins at 62F Arista #2 RC 4x 8x10 Multigrade dev

Auto Maki no 2 150 2.8 Xenotar HRU 5 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Plaubel Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 50 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer

I also mix diluted D-23 from bulk chems and I'm also a happy camper. Also very economical

[Edison]

Well. I used glass bottoms in the trays. Gloves to cut down, gloves to load, unload, and develop. I did 5 sheets at once in D76 1:3 for 8 minutes. I like the exposure and development. But the scratches are comically numerous. Next I'll try just one sheet as advised to rule out the interleafing process.

edit: i removed the carillon photo - i think that was a blue photo with a yellow filter.

[Tin Can]

Yes, I also did Ziploc processing

It works

but