"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig."
seezee at Mercury Photo Bureau
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seezee's day-job at Messenger Web Design
Well, it’d be a shame to lose it, but I think a high contrast fine grain Ortho film would be easier to make than a pan film.
8x10 XRay Dev Hanger by Nokton48, on Flickr
For use in my 8x10 Sinar Norma, I have some ERA 100, some very old HP5 (not+!) and a fresh box of Ilford Commercial Ortho+ I just got from B&H. $5.16 per 8x10 sheet on the Commercial Ortho+.
I want to try XRAY film, so I bought 100 sheets of Fuji 8x10 HRU on Ebay. I just cut down this Kodak 8x10 Film Hanger, so now it fits in a Patterson 8x10 tray. Has anybody here ever tried this method?
I have a gallon of Acufine mixed up (and replenisher) and I be giving this a go soon.
40 cents for an 8x10, 20 cents for a 5x7, 10 cents for a 4x5 sheet. Now I will be able to play under the safelights.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
I just got some 8x10 Carestream Ektascan that I’m planning to try with Pyrocat HD, water stop and TF-4 fixer. Do I need three flat bottomed trays or just the first one for the developer?
Thanks,
Dave
Three. Or use single tray processing.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
I use hangers in the traditional way and Pyrocat. I very rarely get scratches. That makes me think the scratching comes when the film is wet, not when it is dry.
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