BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

[Bruce Watson]

I am just starting to shoot black and white 8x10 negatives and I hope some of the experts can give me suggestions. Is Pyro still highly regarded? Is this difficult to use? What are the benefits and issues of using Pyro? My favorite subjects are moving water, such as waterfalls, cascades, rivers and surf. I also love mist and fog. Good luck and happy shooting,
Mike

There is no answer for your question, because no one can define "BEST" for anyone but themselves. So you'll have to figure out what you mean by BEST and act to satisfy your needs.

However, there is something you should perhaps consider. Reciprocity failure characteristics. Reciprocity varies from film to film rather markedly, and isn't really effect by developer or processing at all.

Why this matters is that with 10x8 film, one tends to use very small taking apertures. This means long exposures, even with high speed films. And this means the danger of having some of your image in reciprocity failure while the rest is not.

For example: Say you want to hold shadow detail on the underside of that wet bolder in the middle of the stream. You figure it's a four or eight second exposure at f/64. With some films you'll be fine (the Tmaxes, Acros). Some films (Tri-X, HP5+, FP4+) you'll have to increase exposure to hold the shadows (amount of increase from reciprocity failure tables, doing the math, your own experimental results, etc.) which will increase your highlight density unless you compensate for it by decreasing development accordingly. And some films (old school Eastern European films like Ekfe) you're just going to lose that shadow detail completely without heroic efforts.

So the question becomes, how do you want to deal with reciprocity failure? Because it's not just going to go away on its own.

This is one of the many reasons I'm shooting TMY-2 now. In 5x4 however. I'm not shooting 10x8 (yet?). And for the record I'm processing my TMY-2 in XTOL at 1:3. Not that you should. It depends on what you want. As the man said, there are many paths to the waterfall...

[John Bowen]

8x10 means SLOW lenses, typically f9 or slower. 8x10 means longer lenses which means LESS depth of field. You require a reasonably fast shutter speed to have water that looks more like water than cotton candy.

To ME 8x10 means FAST film, Tri-x, Tmax 400 or HP-5. I prefer Tmax 400 because of it's excellent reciprocity characteristics, speed, and near straignt line curve. I also prefer my Tmax 400 developed in Pyrocat HD. BUT, I contact print on Azo and I require the contrast in the negative that will allow me to print on Canadian Grade 2 Azo, which is actually very close to a grade 1 of other papers.

So, what is BEST for me may not be BEST for you at all....

Yes, Pyro can be hazardous if mishandled. I might suggest you purchase your inital Pyrocat developer pre-mixed from Photographer's formulary or Bostick & Sullivan.

Welcome to 8x10....you're gonna love it!

[Ed Pierce]

Another vote for tmax 400 for the 8x10. Developing in tmax rs in tubes is easy and works well for me.

[CG]

"Pyro" refers to developers made both with Pyrogallol and Pyrocatechol. ...

Not my understanding. The Darkroom Cookbook 3rd Edition chapter on chemicals mention for Pyro says: "Pyro (see Pyrogallol)" and it does not direct one to catechol / Pyrocatechol.

In their listings, the synonyms for Pyrogallol include "Pyro", whereas the synonyms listed for Catechol do not include "Pyro".

Perhaps I am wrong, but it has been my understanding that "Pyro" refers only to Pyrogallic acid / Pyrogallol. The names do tend to be confusing.

[Gem Singer]

Pyrogallol = "Pyro"

Pyrocatechol = "Catechol"


According to "The Film Developing Cookbook", by Anchell and Troop.

[Scott-S]

I think a lot of people (Including myself) stuggle way to much with choice of film and developer. There are so many things that affect the print. Film, Developer, Paper, Paper Developer, Exposure etc. You can go crazy with the infinite choices. I just started 8x10 and trying to understand the movements. My first box was Tmax 400 (reliable but at $5 a sheet too expensive). My second box was Adox Ort 25. (I've yet to shoot a sheet without any issues). I think my next box will be Arista 100 or 200 because its $2 a sheet. I think because I am learning this is the best choice. I use Clayton F76+, its a liquid version of D-76 I believe. Remember, a good photographer is what makes a good photographic, technincal mastery only adds to an already good photograph

[Toyon]

Pyrocatechol = Catechol.

[Armin Seeholzer]

For me there is only XTOL but for you?
I don't know!

Cheers Armin

[Mike Herring]

Thanks for the wealth of information you guys have provided.
I am going out with the 8x10 and photographing the beautiful waterfalls in Hacklebarney State Park, NJ this weekend.
I still have to build a case for the Sinar P 8x10 but that is another issue!

Wishing you all great light,
Mike

[Andrew O'Neill]

Best for me is HP5+ and Pyrocat-HD.