Large Format Landscapes

[David Hedley]

Thanks andreios - I really appreciate your comment. I'm looking forward to getting back to some higher altitude hiking in the couple of months we have left before the snow arrives. Here is one last one from the most recent visit;

Feegletscher, with Dom in the background

Sinar F, Rodenstock Grandagon-N 75mm, Fuji Acros / Xtol 1:1, orange filter

[Jiri Vasina]

Cross-post from "Images of mistakes" thread - it is a mistake, but I like it nevertheless...

Grove (dreamy)

Shot with Chamonix 5×8" and Meyer Trioplan 260mm f:4.5 lens (without shutter) on 5×7" sheet of Adox CHS 25, developed in Rodinal. Full frame.

[themicahmachine]

Hiked a 70 pound pack 1100' down into Linville Gorge for this... made 6 exposures and this is the only one I felt was worth keeping. Maybe I'll have a higher hit rate next time, if I can talk my legs into carrying it all down there again.



Modified Speed Graphic, either a 90mm Raptar or a 210 Caltar-S, can't remember. Probably the 210 judging by the perspective. Arista ULTRA Edu 100, F/32ish and something around 15s. Rodinal 1:50 in MOD54, scanned on Epson 4990.

[StoneNYC]

Hiked a 70 pound pack 1100' down into Linville Gorge for this... made 6 exposures and this is the only one I felt was worth keeping. Maybe I'll have a higher hit rate next time, if I can talk my legs into carrying it all down there again.



Modified Speed Graphic, either a 90mm Raptar or a 210 Caltar-S, can't remember. Probably the 210 judging by the perspective. Arista ULTRA Edu 100, F/32ish and something around 15s. Rodinal 1:50 in MOD54, scanned on Epson 4990.

Yea I took 80lbs into the Grand Canyon a few years back for 8 days and realized the best shots were from the top (or halfway down) Haha!

But keep at it! You'll learn which lenses you don't need and maybe make your kit lighter next time.

[themicahmachine]

Yea I took 80lbs into the Grand Canyon a few years back for 8 days and realized the best shots were from the top (or halfway down) Haha!

But keep at it! You'll learn which lenses you don't need and maybe make your kit lighter next time.

Thanks, Stone. I've already decided to pare down the kit... Next time there will be no dark cloth (I have a t-shirt), two fewer lenses, half the film holders, and I'm considering ditching the light meter. If only I could get the camera and tripod weight down a bit...

[StoneNYC]

Thanks, Stone. I've already decided to pare down the kit... Next time there will be no dark cloth (I have a t-shirt), two fewer lenses, half the film holders, and I'm considering ditching the light meter. If only I could get the camera and tripod weight down a bit...

Don't ditch the light meter...

[themicahmachine]

Don't ditch the light meter...

Yeah I'm tank developing 6 sheets at a time, so I can't really zone system properly. I'm usually just trying to hit somewhere in the middle to preserve detail in both highlights and shadows, then getting the contrast right after scanning. Sacrilege I know, but it really removes the need for a spot meter. Incident and the matrix meter between my ears is good enough.

[Tristan Joyce]

Yeah I'm tank developing 6 sheets at a time, so I can't really zone system properly. I'm usually just trying to hit somewhere in the middle to preserve detail in both highlights and shadows, then getting the contrast right after scanning. Sacrilege I know, but it really removes the need for a spot meter. Incident and the matrix meter between my ears is good enough.

I think finding the film / developer combination that will give you a full tonal range, effectively covering N-0.5to N+0.5, is important, as this should cover the majority of circumstances. Then, finding the settings for N-1 / N-1.5 may well cover most of the rest. Only rarely do I need N+1. Obviously this all depends on your style of photography, and what you're trying to achieve, but using the zone system in batches of 6 sheets for development is possible, imo.

[Jiri Vasina]

Here comes one without the "ghost" image:

Grove (without ghosts)
Added to my "Serene Landscape" series.

Shot with Chamonix 5×8" camera and Schneider Xenar 210mm f:4.5 lens on 5×8" sheet of Adox CHS 25, developed in Rodinal (Foma R09 variant). Full frame.

[Gary Tarbert]

I think finding the film / developer combination that will give you a full tonal range, effectively covering N-0.5to N+0.5, is important, as this should cover the majority of circumstances. Then, finding the settings for N-1 / N-1.5 may well cover most of the rest. Only rarely do I need N+1. Obviously this all depends on your style of photography, and what you're trying to achieve, but using the zone system in batches of 6 sheets for development is possible, imo.

Don't know if i would venture out without the light meter ,they are pretty light anyway , most times i can work it out between my ears as you say ,But not always particularly in new environments , The forrest floor is darker in New zealand than the bush shade in Australia for example . Took eight 8x10 shots this morning4 will be N-1 and 4 will be N , I have coloured stickers i put on the dark slide to tell me which yellow =N red = N-1 There are other colours for N-2 N+1 , I rarely use N+2 so no colour for this , So to cut a long story short , For my situation this morning 8 sheets In your six sheet tank you need to do two runs anyway for eight sheets 4 sheets at N-1 and 4 at N . Now i am rambling , All i'm saying is don't cull the light
meter!!