I finally discovered the trick to avoiding surge marks on Tri-X in Qualls' monobath. F6, 85mm/f1.4, X1 scan:
Chris
I finally discovered the trick to avoiding surge marks on Tri-X in Qualls' monobath. F6, 85mm/f1.4, X1 scan:
Chris
With inspiration and some encouragement from Messrs. Schroeder, I began searching for an Asahi Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f:1.4 lens to use on my Canon EOS 5D Mark III (5D3). As luck would have it, my local photo shop had a copy on their "used" shelf that I picked-up for $60.00. Today's mail I received a lens adapter from Amazon and spent a little time experimenting with the combination. Here are two simple images taken in my living room using the north facing window for my light source. Based on this initial trial, the darn lens worked like a champ on my 5D3. I'm a seriously happy boy and look forward to more experimentation.
And… ? (the trick)Originally Posted by chrism
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Michael Cienfuegos
Previously I had stripy surge marks from each sprocket hole when the film was developed in conventional tanks, and while the current advice for the commercial version of this recipe is no agitation (which works for sheet film and probably 120, though I haven't tried that yet) I decided to go to extremes to get some idea of what was happening. I did some inversions and got stripes, and then I did no agitation at all, but got stripes at the lower edge of the film, presumably as the solution was poured in. Given all the surge marks are perpendicular to the edge of the film, I tried a Rondinax tank, in which the reel sits on its edge and is rotated to dip all of the film into the solution. Any marks, I reasoned, ought to run parallel to the film edge and be confined to the unused border. So I poured in slowly whilst turning the reel gently and slowly, I then set my timer for six minutes and continued to turn slowly and gently. Success.
There is a small Flickr group for monobaths, and quite a few photos there have stripy drag marks, so I'm not the only one having the issue. I didn't get it with 4x5, and I think 120 would be OK as there are no sprocket holes to cause the problem. It occurs to me that using the rotation stick to twist the reel in a Paterson tank as the solution is poured in might also work.
That's great Jeff! Good to know the super tak works on the mark III. Does it hit the mirror at infinity (just curious). Looks like you got a nice lens (and for cheap!). Looks sharp with nice bokeh.
5d super tak 50/1.4
Thanks Scott. So far, I've not had an issue with the 5D3 mirror and shooting at infinity. Still experimenting, so I'm not ready to make a final decree on that issue. I was very lucky getting this quality at such a terrific price. Wonderful glass, built like a small tank, focus is smooth as silk, and the f/stop ring works very precisely. I could have easily bought one for $150 - $200 on eBay and not done any better. I appreciate your response to my inquiries on this lens; it made a big difference in my decision. Now, if I could get my grandkids to pose for my 5D3 super tak 50 like your son, I'll be a real happy camper!
F6, 28-300mm, Tri-X, Qualls' monobath, X1 scans:
Cape John 1 by chrism229, on Flickr
Cape John 2 by chrism229, on Flickr
Grand Finale by chrism229, on Flickr
Trap winch by chrism229, on Flickr
Chris
I found an old roll of Neopan 400 I shot in Paris in 2010, developed yesterday. Canon LTM 35/1.8.
Garrett
flickr galleries
Just back from Austin, TX, where amidst torrential rain, floods and a tornado, they held the University of Texas grad school graduation. Back at my daughter's house, I grabbed a digi still-life which seemed to say something about Texas graduations (those flowers in the background were a typical bouquet, unlike our Northeast roses), and the water bottle speaks for itself! (Sony Alpha7, tech stuff much less interesting than it is for LF!)
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