I am wondering how this combination works out. I swore not to tap into my last few boxes of AZO (I'm keeping it for emergencies) but I just discovered an open box of grade 2 tucked safely away in my stash of supplies.
I've never used ASO with Ansco 130 (my current brew) so I was wondering if anyone here could provide some insight---will it be warm? Cold? How would it look compared to being developed in good ol' Amidol?
Even a S.W.A.G. would be appreciated!
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
John, I've used this combo on some negatives from a recent trip and I like it. I have been using the new Azo ( the one that has a date of 3/06 I think?) I have some contrasty negs that print well on this combo. I think it needs some generous exposure to get what you can out of it and I have been able to water bath it. It tones nice in Selenium and for me finishes with a soft warm tone. I'll try to post some examples tomorrow. I have also used it with some old 1976 Azo and it was very warm and the prints glowed. I'll post one of the ones that I like but it does not show well on the web.
Jim
Beautiful photograph, Jim!
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
John,
Quite a few others have posted of achieving very good results with Azo and Ansco 130. I've never tried it myself, but have been meaning to get some Ansco 130 and check it out.
Check the Azo Forum and search for Ansco or Ansco 130.
Good luck,
John
Ansco 130 will work very well if your negative density range is a close match to the AZO paper grade(s) you are using. The MAS Amidol formula allows for more flexibility when using a water bath with the Amidol developer.Originally Posted by John Kasaian
I am wondering how this combination works out. I swore not to tap into my last few boxes of AZO (I'm keeping it for emergencies) but I just discovered an open box of grade 2 tucked safely away in my stash of supplies.
I've never used ASO with Ansco 130 (my current brew) so I was wondering if anyone here could provide some insight---will it be warm? Cold? How would it look compared to being developed in good ol' Amidol?
Even a S.W.A.G. would be appreciated!
DMAX and paper tone is very nice with the A-130 formula.
Don Bryant
I've been using it for a while (got some prints in the wash right now, in fact), and I agree with Don Bryant. Ansco 130 will produce results very similar to amidol for well matched negs, but amidol is better for water bath control.
I find 1.5 min. in Ansco 130 1+1 is good for the Canadian Azo G2 (I use 2 min. in Smith's amidol for the same paper). I have some Rochester G3, and also 1.5 min. is usually about right for that as well (I use 1 min. in Smith's amidol usually with this paper).
Thanks everyone!
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
John, remember that you can modify 130 (or any developer) to alter print color. I use a liberal dose of 10% Bromide for some papers. Benzotriazole can be added to cool a paper.
As to your cache of paper, no need to worry about future supplies. I saw Michael Smith last week and he was very enthusiastic about his new Lodima replacement for Azo; said it might just be even better than Azo (and is double weight).
Sounds like you are preparing for your exhibit. Have fun.
Are you making Ansco 130 or getting it from Formulary?
Re: AZO and Ansco-130
I can get the stuff from Formulary??
Well, it's like this. Some time ago I bought this old circa 1930's photography magazine at a swap meet (it came in an old cardboard box with some Harvey's 777, an old Brownie Reflex with a bad case of fungus on the viewing lens and a half empty package of flash bulbs)Inside the magazine it had an advertisement with an order form from Gennart's. So for fun I cut out the order form, bought a 1930's postage stamp from a stamp dealer and, after filling out the order form with an old fountain pen and cellophane tapeing a 1933 50-cent piece to the inside of the envelope I dropped it in the mail box for fun. Imagine my surprise when two weeks later I found a box from Gennart's on my doorstep with an order of 130---IN AN ORIGINAL ANSCO BOX!
They also sent me a catalog, also circa 1930's (but it looks like it was just printed!)
I wasted no time in ordering a 19" f7.7 Dagor in an Acme shutter
for $14.00. I bought some vintage paper money at an antique dealers (and another old stamp) and sent it in since the order form specified currency as they no longer trusted bank cheques as so mank banks had failed. Two weeks later the lens arrived and it has been my favorite ever since! I looked up the serial number on Bolsetzian's list on the LF homepage and it appears to have been manufactured by American Optical in 1931.
Then I ordered a Baby Deardorff for $46.00, a 35mm Leica for $10, a 250 sheet box of AZO 8x10 grade 3 for $7.00 and a Folmer and Schwing 12x20 Banquet camera for the heady price of $62.00. Once more I enclosed period currency and post with an uncancelled 1930's stamp.
Oh yes, I forgot to mention that I always made out the order form with an old fountain pen filled with Shaeffer's India Ink.
My package just arrived this afternoon (funny you should bring this up!) but sadly the baby Deardorff had to be back ordered.
Well, contact printing all those ULF negatives is going to really use up the Ansco-130 fast, so I might as well order some more.
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
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