Gralab 300 repair

[Bruce Watson]

My old trusty Gralab 300 timer has quit functioning -- when I flip the off/on switch to "on" it just sits there. If I manually turn the hands to zero it still buzzes, so it's got power. I suspect the switch or the wiring at the switch. But to trouble shoot it I have to open it.

Question is, how to open it? The box looks like it's held together with four pop rivets. If so I'll have to drill the fasteners out. But what size drill bit? If I have to guess I'd guess 1/8 inch. But I'd rather not guess.

Has anyone opened one of these timers up? Any words of advice?

[D. Bryant]

My old trusty Gralab 300 timer has quit functioning -- when I flip the off/on switch to "on" it just sits there. If I manually turn the hands to zero it still buzzes, so it's got power. I suspect the switch or the wiring at the switch. But to trouble shoot it I have to open it.

Question is, how to open it? The box looks like it's held together with four pop rivets. If so I'll have to drill the fasteners out. But what size drill bit? If I have to guess I'd guess 1/8 inch. But I'd rather not guess.

Has anyone opened one of these timers up? Any words of advice?

I'd suggest going on eBay and looking for a replacement. You can purchase virtually new ones for a pittance. IMO, they aren't worth fixing unless you can get the parts.

They are easy to open, simply drill the rivets out starting with a pilot hole. Larger pop rivets can be used to reassembled them if you need to, or use short sheet metal screws.

More than likely the motor is shot.

Don Bryant

[Bruce Watson]

I'd suggest going on eBay and looking for a replacement. You can purchase virtually new ones for a pittance. IMO, they aren't worth fixing unless you can get the parts.

They are easy to open, simply drill the rivets out starting with a pilot hole. Larger pop rivets can be used to reassembled them if you need to, or use short sheet metal screws.

More than likely the motor is shot.

But... I've got the parts. I've got a "parts box" 300 that came with a box of misc. darkroom stuff when I bought a CPP-2 from the auction site years ago. Just been taking up space on a shelf for the last six or seven years. Don't tell my wife ;-)

But wouldn't you know that it's the pretty clean one that died -- the ugly beat-to-hell stained and dented "parts box" still works fine. I thought I'd do some parts swapping to make the pretty one functional again.

And... it looks like the answer is to drill these 1/8 inch rivets out using a 3/16 inch or even a 1/4 inch drill. The theory is that this will detach the part of the rivet on the outside of the box and I can push the rest of the rivet through the hole with an awl or something. The trick is to stop before making the hole in the box bigger ;-)

[bparker]

Actually, a drill bit will probably just spin the rivet. Best tool is a 3/16" ball mill held perpendicular to the rivet axis. Cut until the external flange separates from the rivet body, then stop (the hard part). Then you can punch the rivet body out.

Later, Bill

[D. Bryant]

But... I've got the parts. I've got a "parts box" 300 that came with a box of misc. darkroom stuff when I bought a CPP-2 from the auction site years ago. Just been taking up space on a shelf for the last six or seven years. Don't tell my wife ;-)

But wouldn't you know that it's the pretty clean one that died -- the ugly beat-to-hell stained and dented "parts box" still works fine. I thought I'd do some parts swapping to make the pretty one functional again.

And... it looks like the answer is to drill these 1/8 inch rivets out using a 3/16 inch or even a 1/4 inch drill. The theory is that this will detach the part of the rivet on the outside of the box and I can push the rest of the rivet through the hole with an awl or something. The trick is to stop before making the hole in the box bigger ;-)

Bruce,

I've literally drilled out hundreds of rivets in my life, it ain't rocket science. Start with a smaller drill bit and work up until the heads spins off. About a 5 minute job in your case - pun intended.

[BradS]

I've performed surgery on several Gralab timers including the Model 300. The rivets do spin. Try starting with a very small drill bit and working up slowly. Still...they will probably spin. I usually just get out the Needle nose pliers at that point and keep working. If you start small, you can just crush the rivet head with a regular pliers when it starts to spin.

Parts are available from DimcoGray company.

Try contacting Pam at...
Pam Ruwe
Inside Sales Representative
DimcoGray Company
P 937.291.4715
F 937.433.9545

www.dimcogray.com
www.gralab.com

I have no connection to Pam or the company - She has helped me with parts on several occasions. (I usually scavange parts from donors laying around here though).