I like the BTZS tubes for processing sheet film. Even development, and being able to control the development of each negative individually are a couple of their strong points. You can find more information at BTZS Tubes.
I like the BTZS tubes for processing sheet film. Even development, and being able to control the development of each negative individually are a couple of their strong points. You can find more information at BTZS Tubes.
While we`re on the subject...What`s a good alternative to tray processing 5x7? Thanks, Steve
I've used the Yankee adjustable tank, the FR tank, the Fedco tank, and the Nikor tank. With all of them I use a rocking motion for agitation, and I've had equally good results with all of them. The Nikor tank is capable of inversion as well.
I've just started using a rotary processor (Uniroller with Unicolor and Chromega drums) for my 8x10 film, and with the right drums you can do 4x5 and 5x7 also.
Nice to read all trhe pro's and con's of all the systems. Now that we started talking about this, how about the tubes, a few threads ago someone mentioned developing 8"x10" in , jobo or unirollers, However then the problem arose of the anti-halation staying behind because of lack of contact of the back of the film with the developer, stop, fixer. Hoe is the problem solved in tubes beats me, I've never used them and maybe would like to, can anyone elaborate on this, Thanks.
With re to Andrea's question, the problem is not solved in BTZS type tubes. The neg comes out of the tubes looking blotchy because the anti halation backing is not completely removed. It comes off in the fix i.e., the negatives are fixed in a tray. Have also heard a long wash can fix it. Among the drum style processors, the Unidrums are nice because they have ribs which hold the film away from the walls and permit the anti halation backing to removed in normal processing. Cheers, DJ.
Good ole' tray processing works for me. I wear disposable nitrile rubber gloves, have good ventilation, and prewet the film. I develop up to 3 sheets at a time and get even development with no scratches. (Usually) Perhaps most importantly, I don't mind working in the dark.
Hi Irwin,
I am also pretty new at this. For quite a while I was tray processing my Tri X. Probably due to my inexperience my results were okay, but sometimes I got scratches. Very recently I decided to find an alternative that I could do in the light. Here is my solution..
Bought a Unicolor motor base for $20. And a Jobo tank with 2 4x5 reels (6 sheets each reel) for $45.
Unless I were to spend many hundreds more, I could not find a better solution to my needs. These tanks if rotated need much less chemicals. And why not buy a motor base if you can pick it up cheap. Look at ebay there are some good ones going cheap.
I'm glad I spent some time tray processing to learn the basics. But my results are already much better and more consistant.
Good luck,
claudia
I would like to make a quick comment for the people using the JOBO reels for developing their sheet film. I used that set up for several years and thought that I was pretty good at processing film. During the second John Sexton workshop that I attended I brought my negatives. John made the comment that he had never seen a negative processed on one of those reels that did not have uneven development. I assured him that my negatives didn't suffer from this problem. He proceeded to show me on each negative where the uneven development had occured. I am not saying not to use the reels, they are convenient, but realize when you are making your images that if you place anything important near either of the 5 inch sides that you might not have a useable negative.
Greetings,
I've used the Combi-plan, Doran and BTZS methods for processing sheet film; all three work and all three have +'s & -'s. I now use JOBO 3005 (for 8x10) and 3010 (for 4x5) and nothing I've used is easier and more consistent. These drum are not cheap, but then neither is 8x10 film.
Regards,
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