Including the Sun in Frame/Flare

[gregstidham]

Also, a side note about flare. Bright light sources during night photography will often have flare if filters are used, dirty or clean. Care should be taken unless you want the flare artifacts in your images.

Like RJ says, changing the angle of the filter would help a lot. I wish it was easy to do with screw in filters. Anyone have any ideas? Perhaps a custom rotating ring that mounts filters at a slight angle.

[Kirk Keyes]

Someone needs to invent the "FilterBaby".

[Mattg]

Thanks everyone,
I'm going to do a few more experiments the next time I get a sunny day. Maybe without a filter, with one at the front, at the rear and hand-held in front at an angle. I'll report back once I've done it.

I like the the "diorama" swing effect in that photo RJ. Are the blothes in the sky on the right clouds or flare?

Regards, Matt.

[RJ-]

Hi Matt,

Sounds like a a good experiment to start off with.

Swing effects often distort shapes of clouds - those blotches are clouds which are aesthetically challenging. I was unable to perceive the presence of those clouds through the groundglass due to the blinding lightsource. After removing myself from the ground glass, I was still unable to see the clouds. I guess chasing the sun through a lens has its occupational hazards.

Conventional Hexagonal Flare:

http://www.luxcamera.co.uk/pages/Ach...oogort%20V.htm


Kind regards,

RJ

[Vaughn]

Here's the image, Matt. But even though I can see them on the negative, the rays disappeared fiddling around in photoshop. They slant down left to right.

Goblin Valley, July 2006
8x10, Fuji W 300mm

Vaughn

[Greg Miller]

I'm curious about the posters who mentioned using a lens hood/shade. I don't see how this would help with the sun in the image (I understand how it might improve contrast a little by blocking light bouncing around from other sources but it would not help with the problem the OP is asking about). Or am I missing something obvious?

[Vaughn]

I'm curious about the posters who mentioned using a lens hood/shade. I don't see how this would help with the sun in the image (I understand how it might improve contrast a little by blocking light bouncing around from other sources but it would not help with the problem the OP is asking about). Or am I missing something obvious?

No, you are not missing anything. I threw in the lens shade idea just to help with general over-all contrast-killing flare. But pointing the camera into the sun will also test how well one's camera insides are designed and painted flat black.

I wonder perhaps if with the hood, a filter might not be needed...a hood might replace the need for a yellow filter. A hood would not provide the help an orange filter can provide...so tossing the filter on the back of the lens might help there.

Vaughn

[gregstidham]

I'm curious about the posters who mentioned using a lens hood/shade. I don't see how this would help with the sun in the image (I understand how it might improve contrast a little by blocking light bouncing around from other sources but it would not help with the problem the OP is asking about). Or am I missing something obvious?

You're correct Greg and not missing anything. I guess I just mentioned a shade as extra prevention for flare.

[Murray]

Dumb question perhaps.

Not focussing on the sun is something I have certainly read about, but for some reason associate it's hazards with bellows and cloth shutters...and don't think about it much with smaller cameras with leaf shutters...maybe I'm thinking only the film is at risk.

Are there general safety practices for including the sun and avoiding burning ones equipment (any bellows camera, Speed Graphic f.p. curtain shutter, for example).

I would think that if you can see it on the ground glass, it's not hitting the bellows, but don't feel entirely confident damaging something will teach me enough.

Thank you. Apologies if this amounts to thread-jacking...


Murray