Hello I really need a help. I am thinking to sell my old 35 mm equipmant and buy 4x5 camera.
I just want to learn, how much would cost to make a starter kit and after start how much it cost for me to keep it up. Development, new films and prints?
I am student so it is kind of hard for me to start, but I really want to start.
Kerem
Read the FAQs on this board's parent site to educate yourself a little about gear.
Spend some time looking at close auctions on eBay to get an idea of prices.
Big help, thanks
A very simple starter kit: cheap camera, one lens, three or four filmholders, tripod, could be had used for perhaps $400.
Certain b/w films will cost about 50 cents per sheet if you develop it yourself, which you can do in a tray.
Try KEH Camera Brokers, Midwest Photo Exchange or Ebay for used equipment.
Thank you very much Mr. Marshall. I thought films would be more expensive. Yes I want to shoot in B&W. And I guess I have to develop myself because I am living in little city, I don't think any one does LF development. Thanks again
What Ron said. You could also watch FS threads on this board. The advantage is that most sellers here really know their stuff and will give you good, free advice.
Also, a used monorail camera in very decent condition can be had for much cheaper than a comparable field camera. It will have more movements and all of them will be independently controlled, and thus will be easier to learn. Less important in the beginning but still a nice feature, monorail cameras usually provide much longer extension than field cameras, which is handy for longer lenses and/or close-up work. But as a tradeoff for the price and utility, it will be much heavier and more cumbersome than a comparable field camera.
I would also strongly suggest a 210mm lens as a first lens. It is a rough equivalent to the 70mm lens on a 35mm camera and is good for both portraits and for general scenery. Coming from a 35mm, you will initially struggle with both brightness and upside-down orientation of the image on the ground glass, so I think you should stay away from cheaper f/8 versions and pick a larger (but still affordable) f/5.6 versions, as it tends to be bright enough.
You could use your 35mm as a lightmeter initially, but you can pick a good and yet cheapish light meter off the eBay for very little money if you are patient.
The cheapest way to develop your films is in trays, in the dark. You'll need four of those, as well as two or three graduating cylinders or beaks for measuring and mixing chemicals and you are set to start. If you like it and decide you want to continue, you can always buy up.
I think you'll like it, though.
The film I was thinking of is sold be Freestyle Photo, Arista.edu. It is a nominal 200 ISO fim, actually about 125, and is a good film to begin with:Originally Posted by Daqlon
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_pro...pid=1000002552
It is very easy to develop yourself, you only need developer and fix.
One essential piece of equipment I forgot is a light meter. You could use a 35mm camera. If not a cheap one is about $100 used.
Here is an example of what you can get for $225 from KEH, their bargain grade is fine to start with if you are on a budjet, and a 150mm is versatile and cheap:
http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/Produ...BCL=&GBC=&GCC=
As a side note, and from one beginner to another, I would leave those cheap films to the more experienced hands and start with either Kodak or Ilford. They have better quality control and much less chance for bad samples. As a beginner, you won't be able to tell whether it is your mistake or their fault and that can lead to a lot of frustration. These films typically cost about $1 per sheet and come in 25, 50 and 100-sheet packages.
Chemicals will typically cost you another $0.5 per sheet. Same rule, pick the big name and widely used developer. My suggestion is to pick one film and one developer and stick to it for a while. The most common and easiest to use would be D76 (powder) or HC110 (concentrate) from Kodak or ID11 from Ilford (identical to D76). As for film, pick either Tri-X (Kodak) or HP5+ (Ilford) - those are nice, flexible and relatively fast classic emulsions pretty tolerant of user errors.
You will find the whole process a bit frustrating at first, but it will turn very rewarding very quickly if you persist.
The lord helps those who help themselves. More seriously, why should I retype what's already been written? LF isn't for the lazy.
Now go read. You'll find better answers in the FAQs and by reading old posts than you will in this thread alone.
Sometimes I disagree with this.
LF is for the lazy; those who want to make one exposure, and only one, and get it right the first time.
Of course most of the time I agree completely...
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