I think so, Bob. I'll check into it tonight.
I think so, Bob. I'll check into it tonight.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Guys, i'd appreciate some advise on wet scanning.
Which fluid, which holder to use, don't know the names, I have 3, One with places for small inserts (have a bunch), one with plain glass (?) with the holddown assessories and one with ruled marks on the frame.
Scanning 5x7 and 8x10 now.
any comments you can offer is appreciated.
BTW peter, nothing from Howell,
bob
The "normal" way to scan is to place the negative emulsion side up on the bed and place a cover sheet, which is a thinner and smaller piece of textured plastic on top to hold the negative flat. You put the masks on the cover sheet.
My standard scanning bed, what looks like a 6mm thick piece of acrylic with a very fine anti-Newton texture on one side, is fairly marked up, and it doesn't sit level in the scanner. As a result, I made a carrier that uses optical glass, and I spent quite a bit of time wet-mounting to it using Prazio fluid, which is easier to work with in this application than Kami. I've heard that prazio might stop selling supplies, so if you want some, it'd be best to call them right away. (Kami will work, though, so don't worry too much if Prazio isn't available. Whichever you use, you will have to clean the negatives afterward, no matter what both companies say.)
I put some fluid on the glass and lay the negative emulsion side down onto the fluid, starting at one of the short edges of the film. Bowing the negative slightly toward the glass will allow you to lay the negative down such that the fluid spreads out with no bubbles. Put some more on top, and lay a sheet of mylar, at least 1.5" bigger than the negative in all directions over the negative in the same way. If there are bubbles, place a sheet of mylar on top and gently rub the bubbles to the edge of the film. Keep that one piece of mylar just for that use. I don't use any tape.
OK. All of that said, Ted Harris was of the view, and I agree, that there's very little to be gained wet-mounting with the Cezanne. I've compared scans and there just wasn't any difference. This is the opposite of what I found with a Canon 9950F, a consumer flatbed, where wet mounting made a big difference, especially with coarser-grained film.
I use the metal frame bed that had 6 openings for clam shell holders for 4x5 scanning, making sure to mask off the bed so no stray light gets through.
If you'd like, you can send me an unimportant negative, and I'll scan it both ways for you.
Peter
PS Thank you for the update on Howell. I have another possible source, but he's gone quiet on me.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Thanks Peter, the acrylic bed glass in my case is in excellent shape and I'v been getting superb scans with 4x5 using the side to side hold down sheet. I'm about to scan some 8x10 that unfortunately has some dust on it and hours of spotting work.Originally Posted by Peter J. De Smidt
I have the wet mount materials, fluid, wipes, mylar sheets and have done a few on a consumer grade scanner. Is the acrylic bed compatible with the aztec fluid is the first question, don't want to mess up a perfectly good bed.
And if not, are the others workable.
Not looking for additional sharpness, that I have in spades. Just to eliminate some cleaning chores.
Bob
Hi,
I have no reason to think that Kami and Prazio aren't compatible with the standard scanning bed. As I said earlier, the bed seems to be some type of acrylic, and I think that's what scanning drums are made of. That said, I have no way to know this for sure.
I'm not sure that you'll save a whole lot of time spotting with wet-mounting, as mylar sheets are dust magnets. But there's only one way to tell in your environment, and that's to try it. Carefully clean a negative and scan it normally and then try wet-mounting it.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I am just starting up the Screen Cezanne for the first time... I have a few questions.. I am on a G3 with OS 9.2. I have installed Color Genius 1.0, both client and server on the same computer. I have the manual for Color Genius but unfortunately I have no manual for the scanner itself.
1. The SCSI cable that runs from the scanner to the computer has 25 nails on the end that connects to the G3 computer. Is this the right cable? The G3 doesn't have a proper SCSI card installed it seems like but the cable that came with the scanner fits nicely.
2. Do I need to stick a SCSI terminator in the empty SCSI slot in the scanner?
3. Do I need to turn on the scanner before I turn on the computer?
4. When I turn on the scanner (before I turn on the computer) there are four lights on the front panel: from left to right:
1. flash symbol is lit green - I guess it means power is on
2. A question mark which is lit red - what does it mean?
3. Hourglass symbol is unlit - what does it mean?
4. House symbol is blinking green - what does it mean?
Any help is much appreciated!
Chris
An update:
When I try to start the ColorGenius server application I get the following Error message:
"The initialization of Server application failed. Server can't start.
<Scanner initialization error: Left cover is open.>"
What does this mean? I cannot see that any covers are open...
1. Didn't the G3 have built in SCSI? If it does, and the cable fits, then you should be fine.
2. Yes.
3. Yes. The scanner is the first thing that should be turned on and the last thing to be turned off.
4. The scanner goes through a self-check when it's turned on. Off of the top of my head, the flash symbol is power, the question mark is that the scanner is in the process of calibrating itself on the calibration strip in the scanner, the hour glass means that the scanner is undertaking an activity, such as moving the bed, and the house symbol indicates when the scanning bed is at the home position.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Thank you Peter for your prompt reply! The questionmark red light doesn't go off although I have waited for 20 minutes so is there a problem with the white calibration? I remember seeing a photo here of a white strip which was visible. I cannot see any white strip. The only white strip I can see is on the metal holder for templates where there is a small black and white striped sticker. The scanner bed isn't moving when powering on the scanner. Is it supposed to?
There is a long button just right of the 4 lights. What is it for?
I have localized the left cover, opened it and closed it properly but still I get the same error message when I try to start the Color Genius Server application. I am really puzzled by this. All 4 lamps are working.
Chris
1. Make sure that the shipping plate is not in the locked position. Open the front panel. It's hinged on the bottom. Near the lower right you will see a knurled knob with a metal plate. There are two positions that the plate can be in. If it's attached to the lower threaded post, then the bed is locked for shipping. Unscrew the know, remove the plate, and place the plate over the threaded rod up and to the right. Re-attach knob.
2. The white reference unit is to the left of the scanning tray as you face the scanner. It's a metal strip that can be lifted up and out. On the bottom is a very delicate white strip. Do not damage this! Do not mess with at all, other than checking that it is there looks good. As Screen says, "Never touch the white film surface for it is very delicate and easy to make dirty. If the white film becomes dirty, then the output quality will be adversely affected."
3. The Display panel holds the following indicators. Moving from left to right, the leftmost light is the power indicator. The Question mark light is an Error Indicator. The manual says, "An error code relating to the type of error detecte3d will appear on the computer screen." Next, is the Busy indicator. This LED flashes during scanning. If you open the upper cover at this time, scanning or tray table movement will stop immediately to ensure safety. Next is the Home Position Indicator. This LED illuminates when the tray table has stopped at its home position. By opening the upper cover at this time, you can set the original and perform other such operations. Finally, there's the Overview Scan/Stop Key. Pressing this key when the scanner is not scanning will put the unit into the overview mode. Pressing the key while the scanner is scanning will stop the scanning operation. With the overview scan mode, the whole tray is scanned at high speed to determine the position of the original on the tray.
Start-up procedure. Turn the power switch on. The tray table automatically moves to its home position and all indicators on the display panel begin flashing. After a few moments, the power indicator lights u steadily and the other indicators turn OFF. This indicates that the scanner is ready for operation.
Note: It takes about 30 minutes for the scanner to fully warm up after being turned on.
The left cover is the large wing that the bed moves into when scanning. It can be completely removed from the scanner.
To attach, open the front panel of the scanner. Attach the left cover to the scanner by slipping the cover attachment brackets over the narrow portion of the four pins on the front and rear of the scanner, two at each location. Then push the left cover back so that the cover slips over the large section of the pins. Insert and tighten the left cover retaining screw.
Hope this helps.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
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