Dodging/burning with a cut up print?

[blevblev]

Anyone ever cut up a test print to make a mask for dodging/burning? I've never done it, but it seems like it might be useful, particularly for difficult subjects.

[David A. Goldfarb]

Yes, I've done it. It's not as precise as contrast masking (so it's easy to get halos), but it's more precise than using your fingers.

[Sheldon N]

I've used the same method, but won't lay the mask directly on the print. Rather, I'll hold it above the print and move it around while exposing to get smoother edges.

[Paul Metcalf]

all the time

[Nigel Smith]

two issues (although I do use this method) is the paper is usually not 100% light proof, so the area your dodging can get extra unwanted exposure and as mentioned above, you still need to hold the cutout up and jiggle it about. This means the picture you've based your mask on is not the right size and therefore won't actually mask the desired area accurately. What I do to combat this if warranted (definitely need an accurate mask as opposed to "close enough will do"), is to either make a smaller print by raising the paper up (refocus enlarger) by sitting it on something and cutting that one out OR using a reject print, position the paper (upside down) in under the enlarger up to the height you need and sketch the shape you need and cut that out. 1st method is more accurate, 2nd is cheaper and quicker!

Nige.

[Brook Martin]

what they said. works really good for contact printing.

[blevblev]

I did it for a funny shaped area in one corner. I taped it to a bigger piece of cardboard so it wouldnt bleed over the opposite side. Of course, I moved it while I burned like always. Worked great!

[phil sweeney]

all the time

All the time for large contact prints.

[Chuck Pere]

Also good for flashing selected areas of the print.

[Neal Wydra]

I cheat a bit. I scan the test print and reprint it half size so that I can hold it high enough to keep the edge fuzzy.

Neal Wydra