Home Developing of Velvia 100 (not F)-problems

[eric black]

My workflow with Velvia 100 seems to result in what can only be described as overexposure as the end result. I meter Provia 100F at iso 125 and get dead on results. I also use Velvia 50 metered at 50 and get dead-on results. When I do the same with Velvia 100 (not F) I am getting blown out highlights and the look of overexposure by at least 1/2-1 stop. Please note these are snow scenes with blue skies. I do my own developing with a JOBO processor, 6 step kits and 3010 expert drums using the recommended 7:30 as the initial developing time.

My question would be what have others noted? Should I decrease my initial developing step in time or start metering this film at 160 or maybe even 200? Im going to be doing some testing but wanted to ping the panel to see if anybody else noted anything similar or had some insight that might be helpful.

[Joanna Carter]

I use Velvia 100 a lot and have no problems exposing it at 100 ISO. When you are metering, how much range are you allowing? The most you can expect is 2 stops over the "standard exposre" to 2 stops under. Using a spot meter, I will read the highlights and shadows and determine if the difference is greater than 4 stops, if so and I can use a grad, then I expose at 2 stops above the shadow reading, letting the grad bring the highlights into range. If the range is greater than 4 stops and the highlights are not on one side the image, I will either: take more than one exposure and combine them on the computer; change to Astia which has 6 stops range; or not bother to take the shot.

[eric black]

Joanna
thanks for the reply, but I dont think my metering is the problem as I dont seem to have similar problems on Velvia 50 or Provia. My basic question is if Velvia 100 needs a reduced development time. Fuji films are typically recommended for an additional 30 seconds over the normal 7 minute primary development of non-Fuji films and I have never had a problem with Velvia 50 and Provia using the additional 30 second developing time. I have developed all of my Velvia 100 (6 sheets) so far at the recommended 7 min 30 sec for Fuji but it seems like the Velvia 100 might need the non-Fuji 7 minutes. I may just have a bod batch of film but anyways-thanks for taking time to reply
Eric

[Joanna Carter]

Hmm, I'm sorry but I haven't plucked up the nerve to do my own processing yet Trying to maintain temperatures with nothing but a Combiplan tank doesn't seem too much like fun. I also gather it could cost me more than sending to the lab due to the relatively short shelf life of chemicals. Do you use a processor and drum setup ?

[eric black]

I use a CPP2 with a 3010 Jobo drum- really works great and I like the instant feedback. Im just trying to get things in line with this new film of which I havent used much in the past but got 150 sheets at a pretty good price. So far, the shooting hasnt been too critical, but in the future I would like to depend on it the same as I do with other films. BTW- I didnt answer one of your Q's- I typically figure 2 to 2 1/2 stops either side of 18% gray for latitude.

[Joanna Carter]

I use a CPP2 with a 3010 Jobo drum- really works great and I like the instant feedback.

OK, that is somehing we, as yet, don't have space to accomodate

BTW- I didnt answer one of your Q's- I typically figure 2 to 2 1/2 stops either side of 18% gray for latitude.

And, from experience, this will be one of your problems. Velvia 100 really doesn't like anything more than 2 stops, possibly less to render detail in the extremities; in fact, if I really want good highlight detail, I tend to use 1 2/3 stops over "zone 5".

However, I recently changed labs and have found that I am now getting "brighter" trannies, so it shows that the processing has to be fairly critical. I hope you manage o get your workflow right, there is nothing worse than taking great images only to spoil them at the processing stage.

[Ted Harris]

Hmmmm ... I get dead on results with Veliva 100 at iso 100.

I'd love to comment on your workflow and give some suggestions but you don't ahve enough detail:

--whose 6 batch kit

--temperature

--time for each step

tell us those and I can give you some help.

[eric black]

Ted
Its Kodaks typical 5 liter kit with a 7:30 initial developing step and JOBO/Kodak recommended times for the remaining solutions which are a 2 minute rinse comprising 4 seperate 30 second rinses; 2 minute reverse; 4 minute color development; 2 minute prebleach; 6 minute bleach; 4 minute fixer and 10 x 30 seconds final rinses. I use 100 F temperatures throughout verified by a NIST calibrated digital thermometer.
still baffled and thinking its a bad batch of film
thanks and happy holidays
Eric