Which developer with TMax100 4x5, with these circumstances?

[D. Bryant]

.

But, this is info I need to learn and do myself - so the advice here is very welcome.

Okay here is my advice.

1) Don't waste your money on the IR device. Learn DBI with another film besides TMAX 100. HP5 would be a good choice for that.

2) Don't use Yankee tanks for anything. Just throw it away and get it out of your life. Learn to develop with a rotarty processor such as a Unicolor drum, BTZS tubes, or a Jobo.

3) For this lot of film, find a top notch B&W pro lab and pay them to do it and then learn your craft on new work.

My 2 cents,

Don Bryant

[Clyde Rogers]

I process TMAX 100 sheet film in TMAX RS and xtol 1:1 in Jobo drums, and get the rated speed with my spot meter. Both developers look good to me, but I've ended up preferring the xtol because I like it better for roll film.

I agree about the Yankee tank, I tried one years ago and and did not get nearly as even development as the Jobo provides. Given your parameters, I'd recommend running tests using xtol 1:1 with BTZS tubes (run six tubes at once, read some of the good info about using the tubes on this website or apug.org). They're easy to use, and relatively cheap. When you've used six tubes several times with good results, then charge ahead start processing your trip negatives. If all goes well, you'll be done testing in one day.

Backup options are to do the same tests with one of the Jobo 4x5 drums on some sort of roller base (or to really spend a lot, get a Jobo...). The Jobo is easier than the tubes, but they both are pretty simple.

The final option is to ignore all of us about the Yankee tank, run your tests and decide for yourself if the results satisfy you.

Until later,

--clyde

[Bill_1856]

Now is NOT the time to learn how to develop sheet film (especially T-Max, which is notoriously fickle to develop). If these negatives are as important to you as the would seem to be, I would recommend that you find yourself a good professional lab and have them done by someone who knows what they are doing.
Expensive? yes! Worth it? Also definitely!
Whoever you pick, be sure to send them a couple of trial negatives before trusting them with your trip stuff.

[Colin Corneau]

Which would lead to me asking --

Anyone recommend a top notch lab in Canada?

Some good lessons here, albeit learned retroactively!

[Colin Corneau]

Also, if it's not veering off the topic too much - what is the problem most people here have with the Yankee tanks?

I've only developed some HP5 in them, so I don't have enough variety or experience to be able to say. However, it worked out well for me so I was wondering what reasons you all had for the thumbs down on this product.

[evan clarke]

I might take a little flack but I always make 2 sheets of the same exposure and have never lost a valuable image since I started doing it. 95% of the time the first one goes fine so I have a surplus of second sheets on hand waiting to be developed. If you want to experiment you have a nice source of sheets and a good neg to compare to. With Tmax, this costs about $1 extra per photograph, cheap!..Evan Clarke

[Joseph O'Neil]

A few thoughts..

1) with any speed or size of T-max, when in doubt, use good old D-76. It may not be "sexy" but it gets the job done, and is as about as bullet proof as you can get with T-max.

2) go out, buy a box of T-max 100, take your same camera and same light meter and same lens you used in China, shoot the entire box over a few days or weeks, develop all the sheet films (even if it takes you a week or three) before you even touch your China trip film. What you will learn from your mistakes with this box will guide you through your China shots to safety.

3) Buy some zip lock bags, and right now, store all your exposed film inside those zip lock bags. I am assuming your exposed film is in either an empty film box or even some film holders - probally an empty box is best. Whatever way you do it, I find variations in moisture can hard film much more than variations in temperature. Zip lock bags are cheap and effective way to protect film.

4) A good pro lab in Canada that does B&W (any format?) Ahem - yeah right. The main reason I started developing my own B&W film 25 years ago is because even then the so called "pro labs" would butcher my B&W film all to heck. Even the same labs that did a wonderful and excellent job on colour films - when it came ot B&W - yeck! So unless the situation has improved in 25 years, learn to do your own. You might find an exception, and I apologize ahead of time if you do, but I'd rather bet on finding a real leprechaun in Ireland than a real B&W pro lab in Canada.


5) as for developing 4x5 sheet film, of all the methods I have tried, a Jobo tank is the most consistent. Even on a manual base where you hand roll it works better, IMO, then tray development or SS hangers.

good luck
joe

[Hans Berkhout]

If you are stuck I'd be happy to develop your film. I'd have to develop some test shots first, naturally. Contact me if interested, I'm in Calgary. Only cost for you would be shipping and chemicals, plus a box of film.

[Brian K]

Hello all
First post here, after soaking up info in a LOT of hours of reading the forums.

I recently returned from China, where I shot TMax 100 in 4x5 with a Crown Graphic (along with a Schneider 135mm) in remote areas bordering Tibet.

The film was rated at EI100 for exposures, shot in daytime.

Obviously, these images are pretty special to me as much for the subject matter as the difficulty in getting there, so I really want to get this right. My goal is to hand print the images on B&W paper (likely my favorite paper, Ilford Warmtone multigrade FB), with the eventual goal of an exhibit.

My question: which developer works well with this film, in your experience?

I've developed TMax100 in 35mm using the TMax developer, but notice the bottle says it's not recommended for film other than roll.
My previous developers with other films (including HP5 in 4x5) is either D76 or Ilfosol.

I'd prefer something trusty and familiar such as D76 but want to be 100% sure before touching a single sheet...thanks for any help!

Colin, do you have any sheets left of the same emulsion of film you shot in China? If you do do some test exposures with it. Using the same meter and metering techiques you used in China, as well as the same lens, expose some sheets metering with EI (film speed) 80, 100, 125. You now have film that is expendable so you can test developers without ruining any important film. If you have never done processing by inspection and using night vision trying it out with irreplaceable film might not be the best time.

A good, simple, reliable developer is D-76, however I would suggest not going with 1:1 but going straight, because 1:1 can make Tmax 100 a little grainier than need be. However if you are going to use a Jobo or other rotary processor then you will need to go 1:1 to give a long enough dev time for eveness. Only use fresh d-76 as D-76 more than 2 weeks old changes and causes higher contrast. D-76 will deliver a nice tonality, good film speed, probably around 80, and high acutance.

Xtol is a good developer, but it can make for a mushy grain that many find unattractive and has the appearance of lower acutance because of the mushy grain.

[Brian K]

I see that Joseph and I are on the same wavelength. Next time I read the ENTIRE thread before posting...