Marbrink: Reviewing the posts raises a question about your requirements in architectural shooting (which you indicate is part of your motivation for moving up in format): namely, do you want swings and tilts for verticals and horizontals, or merely the larger format? I had assumed you needed the camera movements, which is why I suggested the 4x5 (or modular 6x9) approach. If you do not need movements, or perhaps only limited lens rise/fall, certainly the "fixed lens" or "shift lens" options mentioned would actually be more convenient (i.e. more portable, potential for hand holding vs. tripod, etc.) Also, you are correct that the 4x5 plus rollfilm holder approach will be a bit heavier and bulkier than a dedicated 6x9, but as always, one is trading ultimate flexibility vs. a more specific-to-the-problem approach. One last option not yet mentioned would be the Hasselblad flexbody (there was recently one listed in the FS section); this was Hasselblad's response to architectural photography needs, combining their lenses (not sure if it was all H'blad lenses or only special ones) and 6x6 magazines with some lens movement.
Thanks Gordon, Walter and Peter.
Peter,
The reason for trying out 6x9 is I want to try a larger format + have the movements. The flexbody might be nice but 6x9 film is 50% larger + I don't find the square format as good for allround use. If I was to turn for a MF solution I would probably go for the Mamiya 67 II with tilt/shift adapter instead.
I like the quality of the Leica wides and you can really get excellent quality out of the M8 or an analogue M with fine grained film, but you don't have the movements and have to turn to Photoshop. While fixing it in Photoshop is very convenient and you have great control, you loose a little resolution.
How would you see the results of tilting/shifting with a rangefinder camera?Originally Posted by marbrink
The easiest, most flexible option is to look for a 4x5" camera and rollfilm back. There are lots of them out there that can do what you want without getting involved with a more specialized and expensive 6x9 camera, and you'll have the option of using 4x5" (or 6x12 or even 6x17) when you want to go wider or when you just want the extra resolution of a larger format.
If you are mainly interested in wide lenses for architecturals, you might consider a camera like the Cambo Wide DS. The helical mounts make the lenses more expensive than with a camera that uses a bellows, but it is quite compact, and gives you rise and shift, which are the main movements you would use for architecture with wide lenses.
Jeremy,
I meant the Mamiya RZ67 II.
David,
Seems like 4x5 might be the way to go.
The Cambo wide DS also is an interesting option. Maybe a good option if I'll add a digital back later?
You've a lot of great advice so far, I can add little.
Of course I haven't even received mine yet, but the RazzleDog polaroid conversions may be an option. It's a rangefinder camera, and I have purchased mine (still halfway through manufacture) as I love using my old M2.
Having a back similar to the Graflok back, you can use 6x9 and 6x12 backs with ease. Parallax corrected viewfinder is also half the fun. You'll want to contact Dean Jones direct. He might have a custom job that would suit your needs.
( http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~razzle...stom_shop.html )
Since you mentioned the L word: unless you are planning to trek, or have a physical limitation, get a metal modular monorail camera, such as Sinar or Arca Swiss. Once you have gotten accustomed to sublime build quality, anything else will seem like... a toy.
I briefly discuss the Sinar here, and give some helpful links.
Make sure that the camera will not be constrained at the short end. Depending on how short your lenses, you may need a bag bellows, and a camera that can retain its range of movements when standards are close to one another.
To get top image quality, roll film holders need to keep the film flat, and not all holders are created equal in this regard. Ask about them, or search earlier posts about them. No sense getting great lenses with adequate coverage, only to have the film "bowed".
Ahh, gotcha! I was scratching my head thinking of the Mamiya 7II rangefinder camera w/ a tilt/shift.
Just about any 4x5" camera with a Graflok/International style should be easy to add a digital back to, if you decide to make that move at some point.
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