Help Loading and Advancing Roll Film Back

[dazedgonebye]

I have an Rh10 roll film back on my Graflex XLSW. I took it out this weekend without bothering to find out how to load the thing ahead of time.
I worked out the basics and did get it loaded, but I apparently made some mistakes.
First, I did not advance the film enough initially because my first couple of shots were not actually on film and I had blank film at the end.
Second, I’m experiencing about ¼ inch or more of overlap on each frame.

How I operated it:
By the second roll, I got a clue as to how it should be loaded. I loaded the film and then set the dial on top to “S” (for start?). I then advanced it to the number “1.” Not trusting this, I decided to ruin some film for the educational value. I snuck the dark slide out a bit and saw that the film was not showing. I advanced the lever one more stroke and went on to shoot.
Every time I went to advance the film, it was necessary to release the little chrome lever near the film advance. This did not seem right, but it was the only way it would work.

An education on these things would be greatly appreciated.

[BrianShaw]

I assume the RH-10 you are using is the same or similar to the one I use on Speed Graphic. If so, when you wind on the roll, there is a small arrow on the inside of the film holder. The arrow on the film should be aligned with the arrow on the film holder. Then close the back, set the counter to "s" and wind until the counter stops at "1".

[BrianShaw]

Part of the winding process is releasing the silver lever (advance lock) before winding to the next exposure... it is normal and expected to need to do that.

[dazedgonebye]

Thanks Brian, that makes sense.
My Koni-omega had a similar mark. I guess I just didn't see it for the RH10, but I'll look.
I'm glad to hear about the advance lock being normal.

Any ideas on the frame overlap? It doesn't sound like operator error, but I never know.

[David A. Goldfarb]

If only the frames at the beginning of the roll overlap, then it might be the result of the winding problem.

If all the frames overlap by the same amount, and you're advancing each frame until it stops winding, then there might be a problem with the back, or the insert might be a smaller format (like 6x7) than the shell (like 6x9). If the shell says "RH10" and the insert counts to 10 exposures, then they should match (6x7).

[dazedgonebye]

Well, the insert does count to 10. Now that I look again, the shell does not say RH10, just "120 rollfilm holder." It is masked appropriately for 6x7 though.
On the first roll, there was overlap on each frame, but it did vary a bit from frame to frame.
I'll pick up the second roll today.
Thanks for all of the help.

[dazedgonebye]

BTW, nothing stunning here, but this is one shot salvaged from that first mistake filled roll.

[Michael Graves]

Looks like the Mogollon Rim. Is it?

[dazedgonebye]

Looks like the Mogollon Rim. Is it?

Yes it is. Just off of Hwy 260 near Wood's Canyon Lake.
Are you in AZ?
Wait...I see you are not. Obviously though, you've been here.

[Donald Qualls]

If you started the film incorrectly, the frames will overlap because there will be less film and backing on the takeup spool than the roll holder's mechanics expect, so advance will be less than the full 75 mm or whatever a 6x7 frame plus space should be. Generally with non-red window film transports that don't automatically start a counter, you have to load the film and advance until the double-headed arrow that runs crosswise on the backing is even with a marked point in the transport, *then* set the start point, close everything up, and advance to 1. That will, first, ensure that you first frame is on film, and then, second, give you enough diameter on the takeup spool that the frame spacing will be accurate.

Now, I've never handled an RH10, so can't tell you where to look for the start mark to match up to the double-headed arrow, but I'm confident it's there, and will be visible from the back side (i.e. the side that gets the convex cover after loading) during the loading process. Find the place in the holder to match up the film's start mark, and you're good to go (unless you load 220, which has a different distance from DHA to film start than 120).