300mm lenses for 8x10

[Paul Ewins]

I'm looking for an "every day" lens for 8x10, i.e. something in a reliable, multi-speed shutter that is sharp and useful for a variety of purposes. I've got a Cambo SC which is mostly studio bound so I don't imagine that the weight of the lens is going to be serious issue.

I already have a Germinar 240W and a G-Claron 210 that should cover, and a Caltar-S 210 and Symmar 210 convertible that might make it stopped down, so I'm looking for a longer focal length. I already have all manner of process lenses, aero lenses and soft focus lenses in barrel that range from 300mm through to 610mm but I want something with a faster speed than I can manage with a Packard.

300mm is the next step up, but should I look at skipping straight to 360mm? Will there be any perspective problems if I use a 300mm for a head and shoulders portrait?

Looking at Ebay, it seems that around $400 would get me a Fuji 300W, various Caltars or a Schneider Symmar-S. For 360mm it looks like I'll be paying over $500 for the same brands. At KEH I could get a "Bargain" grade 300 Symmar-S, 360 Nikkor Q or 420 Fujinon L all around $450.

Is it worth looking at older lenses like the Symmar convertible 300/500 or a 12" or 15" Caltar? Perhaps hope to stumble on a cheap Ektar?

[John Kasaian]

I like the 355-360-14" but they are usually quite a bit larger than thier 300/305/12" little brothers.

The 300/500 Symmar would be a good lens, but so would the Wollensak 1A which gives your not two but three focal lengths.

The 12" Goerz Dagor is always a good bet.

The 305 G Claron is always a good bet too.

I wouldn't turn my nose up at a 12" Wollensak Velostigmat either, especially if portraiture was in my plans

Since you already have a 240mm I think a 355/360/14" or even a 15" or 16-1/2" might give you more bang for your buck. If you happen on one, you might consider a 355 G Claron, 14" Commercial Ektar, 375mm Ilex Acuton or a 16-1/2" Goerz Artar. YMMV but I'd still consider these focal lengths "normal" for an 8x10 (maybe the 16-1/2 is pushing things but proportionally it shouldn't be much different than a 210mm on a 4x5, which is considered by many as a normal lens)

Good luck!

[evan clarke]

Nikon 300M....EC

[Gary Smith]

Personally I like the Fuji 300mm C or its bigger 300mm CMW cousin. The 300A is even better than the 300C in that it has a larger image circle and is I think a little sharper. The downside is it also commands a rather large price premium over the other two.

Hope it helps.

Gary

[Walter Calahan]

It's totally out of the price point you want to pay, but it's always nice to dream.

My absolutely favorite 300 for 8x10 is the Cooke XVa convertible. I can't think of a finer 300, but its also a fabulous 476, and 645.

http://www.cookeoptics.com/cooke.nsf...2?OpenDocument

[Gary Smith]

It's totally out of the price point you want to pay, but it's always nice to dream.

My absolutely favorite 300 for 8x10 is the Cooke XVa convertible. I can't think of a finer 300, but its also a fabulous 476, and 645.

http://www.cookeoptics.com/cooke.nsf...2?OpenDocument

I will second that! I have one and will never let it go. Its an awesome lens if you can get one.

Gary

[Frank Petronio]

I had a nice 300/5.6 Xenar in a Copal 3 that was my favorite - nice bokeh, not very expensive, not that large. I'd re-buy it, like a lot of things I had!

[Hugo Zhang]

Take a look at a 30cm or 36cm Heliar. It is a fast lens. Of course, the 30cm Lanthar would be the best choice.

[Jim Noel]

Nikon 300M....EC

I second Evan. The Nikkor 300M is small, sharp, and relatively cheap.

[Oren Grad]

For 360mm it looks like I'll be paying over $500 for the same brands.

Not necessarily. I picked up my 360 Caltar II-N (Rodenstock Sironar-N) for $400 on eBay.

I'm not a long focal length fan, so for an "every day" lens, I'd find a 300 more useful than a 360. But even if you currently use longer lenses in small fomats, with experience, you may find that your focal length preferences from small formats don't translate directly into larger formats. In particular, many people find that for a variety of reasons, as the format gets larger they tend to go a bit wider than a strict proportionality from their preferences in the smaller format would suggest. And of course, in any given optical design, a 300 will tend to be smaller and lighter than a 360.

If you like your 210 G-Claron, the 305 G-Claron might be a nice choice. It fits in a Copal 1, so it's very compact and lightweight compared to the big 300/5.6 plasmats, which would help if you ever do decide that you'd like to explore a bit more actively beyond the studio.