Appropriate equipment for LF

[Ole Tjugen]

... I don't want to be fiddling about with anything unnecessarily archaic, or that makes this process more difficult or long-winded than it needs to be. ...

LF cameras can be said to be "necessarily archaic".

Oddly enough some of the most efficient film options like pack film and Grafmatics are long out of production, so we now have the choise between "archaic" double sheet film holders ("dark slides") and the not-much-better quickloads. One classic double film holder takes two sheets; if you need more, you need more holders.

Easy loading, shooting and removal of film are said to be the benefits of quickloads. I've never tried them, and am perfectly happy with ordinary "archaic" double film holders - loading is easy with a little practice, shooting is just the same, removing the film from the camera is certainly no more difficult, and unloading the film is even easier.

"International backs" are the de facto standard, and only a few very old camera don't have them. Many camera have Graflock backs, which are an advantage for (some) roll film holders, (some) digital backs, (some) reflecting viewers and suchlike. It's not necessary, but can be nice.

In use there is not much difference (except size) between my most modern camera and the other one which is virtually unchanged since 1900. I even use the same lenses on them - and on a camera which really was made around 1900. Some of the lenses are the same age, and some are brand new (less than a decade old, at least). To me part of the advantage of LF is the almost complete compatibility of everything over a period of a century or so!

[steve simmons]

In the Free Articles section of the View Camera web site there is an article on film holder choices. It will give you some visuals that will help you understand your choices.

steve simmons

[neil poulsen]

Consider getting a 150mm Componon S enlarging lens and a lens in a Copal 1 shutter. In addition to enlarging, this lens can be used for photographing your watercolors. I've used one for exactly this purpose, photographing a neighbor's watercolors. I thought the results were quite sharp.

Whatever lens in the Copal 1 that you get, one can determine a table to translate f-stops. We can help you with that calculation. Of course, if you were to get at 150mm taking lens, no translation would be necessary.

[Jonathan Rice]

Many thanks for that, Rich.

Cheers


Jonathan

[Jonathan Rice]

That's great Ole. Thanks a lot for your information. Forgive my use of 'archaic' to describe photographic equipment that may well be durable and very fine. It has been hard for me to know what I'm looking for and what to avoid but your post has definitely helped to narrow things down a lot.

Jonathan

[Jonathan Rice]

Steve,

Thanks again. I will go there directly!

[Jonathan Rice]

Thanks Niel,

As it happens I had favoured a 150mm taking lens, or 180mm. Why would you recommend Copal 1 shutter? Thanks for offering help with the calculations too.


Jonathan

[John Kasaian]

Jonathan,

Just get a cheap but working 4x5 with a decent lens and shutter and start taking photographs. You'll soon learn what works for you, what you need and what you don't need. The Calumet 400 series and the Crown Graphics are all capable cameras. If you insist on "new" imports like the Tachi and Shen are good places to start. All will shoot portraits and all can be lugged out into the field (the Calumet requires a bit more enthusiasm the farther you get from the car) Read the books and articles and shoot your camera for a year. You'll know what you need by then. For your first lens get a 210mm-ish by any of the major manufacturers---Schneider, Nikkor, or Rodenstock. The Kodak 203 Ektar is also a great option as would be a Dagor or Wollensak Raptar---(the 165mm Velostigmat is a nice lens too) just make sure the shutter is good---iinvesting in a cla is a good idea.

Have fun!

[Aaron van de Sande]

Film handling is one of the toughest things to learn... using a changing bag, loading film holders (in the right direction) working out a process with filmholders so you don't double expose, tray developing without scratches....

Really the best thing you can do is get some inexpensive film and go at it.

[archivue]

considering the lens, i will go for an apo ronar 240 MC in black copal (from 200 to 500 $)
I guess that a monorail studio view camera would be sensible but I fancy taking the thing out for landscape photos too
As a monorail, while i'm found of arca swiss fline, i consider the Sinar Norma(from peanuts to 600 $) to be the best value for money 4x5 camera available in second hand.
But, i'm pretty shure, that a linhof technika IV (i prefer the V and later, but...) or a MPP in very good shape are good alternative if you don't need a lot of movements…
Note that these are not the cheapest alternative, but in my opinion... the best value for money !