Master Tech 2000 and Super Symmar 80-XL...

**Scott Rosenberg** · 11-Nov-2006, 16:23

i'm hoping to hear from someone that uses an 80-XL on a MT2000. I've recently started to use this combination quite a bit and unless i'm doing something wrong, find it incredibly frustrating. you see, when i try to use my 80-XL on a flat board and focus at infinity, the lens needs to rest right at the break in the innermost track and the first main track. since i need to drop the bed to keep it out of the frame, i must do one of the following... 1. fully extend the internal focusing track and then slide the front standard until it's nearly fallen off the edge (fine focusing is nearly impossible this way) or 2. slide the front standard onto the drop bed and then tilt the lens back and employ some degree of rise to get everything squared up. i'm not particularly keen on either of these work-arounds, and i hate recessed lens boards, so i find myself wondering what others using this camera/lens combination do? i don't remember having this problem with the 75mm lens that the 80 replaced, so i might just switch back.

any suggestions? anyone else experience this?

thanks,

**KenM** · 11-Nov-2006, 18:20

I have a 75mm Grandagon-N, and the only things I have to do when using this lens are a) slide the focusing track all the way back, and b) perhaps use a bit of rise to get the bed out of the frame. I don't think I have to use rise when I'm shooting horizontal, but I know for a fact I have to when going vertical with the 75.

The lens does rest partly on the rear track, but there's enough on the front track to allow me to use geared focusing. I have no idea why you should be having issues with an 80 - I've seen a MT2000, and other than the fine-focusing level, there's no functional difference when compared against a MT.

**Bob McCarthy** · 11-Nov-2006, 18:28

Scott,

My 75 Fuji SWD does what you describe also.

Solutions are : 1)Use a lens board thats drilled center rather than offset down. Not necessary to tilt bed down for landscape and OK for portrait. Use outer rail, butted up against inner (no need to drop). -or- 2)Pull out the back to give more focusing range on the inner track. Drop outer bed to get out of the way. do both

Closeups work fine on outer track. Keep the 80 or give it to me <G>.

Bob

**Scott Rosenberg** · 11-Nov-2006, 18:41

thanks for the inputs, fellas.

bob, that morning we were shooting old tractors and you tried my 80-XL... didn't you mention that it was resting right on the junction of the inner and main rails? well, now i see what you were talking about. extending the rear and sliding the lens onto the internal focusing track might just do the trick. mounting the lenses on center-drilled boards is a great idea, too... i'll do it for my 58 as well. where'd you get yours?

**Bob McCarthy** · 12-Nov-2006, 06:30

Scott.

I got lucky. When I bought the camera it came with a few xtra boards. One was the correct shutter sized and center drilled . The previous owner used it primarily with a roll film back . He sorted out the issues using wide lenses.

Take care. How did the weekend shoot go?

Bob

**Michael Rosenberg** · 12-Nov-2006, 18:26

Scott,

Use an extension ring to get it on the inner rail. Look at the ones sold by Badger - they work extremely well and are very cheap. My 75 is on one of these. They are made by Toyo I think. Also SK Grimes can make one - look at their web site.

Regards,

Mike

**Bob Salomon** · 13-Nov-2006, 06:47

The recessed 001015 lensboard. This board has controls for the aperture and the press focus on the front of the board and comes with aperture scales for all lenses that fit it that mount to the front of the board so it works as easy as a flat borad and you don't have to reach into the recess to set anything.

**Bob Salomon** · 13-Nov-2006, 06:48

This is the current version of the 001015 board. The older 001015 does not have nor accept these controls.

**Ed Richards** · 13-Nov-2006, 06:55

New new board works great - I use it with a 90 on my Technika. It makes setting the f stop easier than with a flat lensboard, plus you can see the setting from the front of the camera.

**Brian Ellis** · 13-Nov-2006, 10:34

I haven't used a 2000 but on a Master Technika Classic or any earlier Technika the simple solution is to just slide the top rail all the way to the back. That eliminates the break to which you refer. I used the 80mm XL all the time that way on my Classic Master with no problem. Maybe the 2000 is different.