How to fine tune my procedure correcting color negatives.

[BKP]

I have discovered my approach to neutralizing the color coupler mask on color negatives by "the hit and miss" approach. I have since determined that 115c+60m on my Omega dichroic head "gets me there". There are negatives that behave like "crossed curves" where a slight magenta decrease from the image yields too green too quickly. There is supposed to be a neutral in the middle. I usually accept the too magenta and adjust it further in PS with an acceptable compromising attitude or convert it to grayscale. Mind you these negatives fifty years old but very well kept.
My method is to make minor adjustments from my starting pack (above). Them import via Nikon image transfer onto my trusted XP sporting PS 7. Then "invert image", "adjust levels" or "brightness contrast" and "auto color" seems to get me there or close to it.
One in particular is an image of a gold prospector's sluice box and trough (from the twenties) in the woods.(shot in the 70's) I did everything wrong. First I shot it on E.K. 5254 and then I protected the transparency more than the negative. I gave up it is in b/w for now.
If anyone uses a different approach I would appreciate knowing about it. Very often there is an easier or better way that one could try. I have not explored Raw files 'though my two DSLRs have that capability. Thanks bk

[SergeyT]

https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1849862

[annaeartha]

To fine-tune your color negative processing procedure, there are several approaches you can try:
Use Color Filters: Experiment with different color filtration settings on your Omega dichroic head. Your combination of 115c+60m is a good starting point, but you may need to adjust it further based on the characteristics of each negative.

Adjust Magenta Levels: For negatives exhibiting "crossed curves" behavior, where decreasing magenta leads to excessive green, try fine-tuning the magenta levels to find a neutral balance. You can do this in your enlarger settings or in post-processing software.

Post-Processing in Photoshop: After scanning your negatives into your computer, use Photoshop or a similar software to make further adjustments. "Invert image," "adjust levels" or "brightness contrast," and "auto color" can help achieve the desired color balance.

Experiment with Raw Files: If you have the capability, consider exploring the use of Raw files from your DSLRs. Raw files provide greater flexibility in post-processing, allowing you to adjust color balance, exposure, and other parameters with more precision.

Learn from Others: Reach out to fellow photographers or online communities for different approaches. Someone may have a technique or workflow that works better for your specific situation.

Practice Patience: Color correction can be a trial-and-error process, especially with older negatives. Take your time to experiment and refine your technique until you achieve the desired results.

Remember, there's often more than one way to achieve a desired outcome. Keep experimenting and refining your process until you find what works best for you.

[Alan Klein]

I switched to chromes.

[BKP]

This is helpful. Thanks SergeyT. I purchased Lightroom 3 years ago but did not truly give it, its due. I gave up too early. The NLP program seems to be worth looking into. I'm trying to stop buying more photo related stuff.
I naturally do fine tuning on my individual negatives to minimize crossed curves that's how I got to my acceptable filter pack. However I haven't explored Raw enough. Sometimes its easier to just accept a b/w version.
As far as switching to chromes, I have thousands of those (8x10 to 35mm) and they're coming along nicely, although there are always the problem ones due to poor processing originally.
Thanks for your comments. I'm just not up on all the newer programs and their uses. It seems that Lightroom3 deserves another look after watching a few YouTube videos.bk