Quote Originally Posted by xkaes View Post
Royal-X Pan -- not to be confused with Kodak Royal Pan.

ASA 1250. Comparable to Kodak 2475 Recording film in grain.

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If only! I love 2475, the only roll I've been able to shoot did not age well. I will keep my eyes peeled for these but they seem quite rare...

Quote Originally Posted by Mark Sampson View Post
Sadly, Royal-X Pan has been discontinued for at least 30 years. Maybe try paper developer- it's more active than a film developer and will likely give you more grain along with its increased contrast.
I do like the results a guy I know gets with Dektol... I'll have to pick his brain on that!

Quote Originally Posted by paulbarden View Post
Fomapan 400
Quote Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt View Post
Fomapan 400 + Rodinal, pushed a stop.
Foma seems like a likely solution! I got a box of 200 from Fotoimpex last year, but they sent me 13x18cm rather than 5x7 Still gotta get the right holder, but more film would be cheaper, and 400 is of course grainier than 200.

Quote Originally Posted by revdoc View Post
Most people think that pushing film is the way to go, but that's not a good approach.

The short version: choose the grainiest film you can, overexpose, overdevelop, and print on the highest grade possible.

When I say overexpose, I mean by at least 2 or 3 stops. By all means use a print developer to develop. You want a very dense, preferably flat negative you can print on grade 4 or 5.

Though I'm not sure why you want to do this with sheet film. That seems like doing it the hard way.
I haven't really played with significant under/overexposure or over/underdevelopment on my sheet film yet, and I would like to get grain while preserving "normal" tonality.

Quote Originally Posted by xkaes View Post
or used a grain texture screen in the enlarger -- recently discussed on a similar, recent thread.

Another option is to use use smaller format, such as the half-frame Pen F.
I'm not looking to get grain for grain's sake, just to get more grain in my negatives when the situation calls for it. I do prefer to get that right in camera and in development, so I have the negative I want, as opposed to editing to get a similar effect.

Reticulation, drastic pushing/pulling, and smaller formats don't appeal to me in this case - I'm looking to change a specific variable, not several.

I should also note that my current end products for LF are contact cyanotypes and scans.