My first Lens. Symmar-S 6,8 /360 in a Copal 3 shutter. What next?

[Len Middleton]

For the shutter hole size and other related info, might want to look at:

https://www.largeformatphotography.info/shutters.html

If you have not had a wonder around there, you might be surprised in what you find...

[Alan9940]

I bought this same lens brand new in the early 80's and have used it on my 8x10 Deardorff for over 40 years. Image quality wise it has never left me wanting, but in recent years I use a Fuji 360A more because...well did I mention how heavy that Schneider lens is! I ain't gettin' any younger! ��

[Andy F]

Why can't I just count from the largest opening. So if the lens in front says 6.8 and the shutter says 5.6 then the lens is just constantly one half stop off, correct. If 5.6 is really 6.8 I think it is a half stop less light. If this is true then each f-stop should be consistently 1/2 stop off. So I just make the assumption I need to add one half stop to each setting, correct? Please let me know if my thinking is flawed.

[angusparker]

Back to the original question. After a normal lens (300-360mm for 8x10), I’d look for a wide or semi-wide lens in the 150-210mm range. After that a long lens around 450mm. I wrote a blog post on my suggested lens sets for 8x10 here: https://www.angusparkerphoto.com/blo...10-view-camera

[reddesert]

Why can't I just count from the largest opening. So if the lens in front says 6.8 and the shutter says 5.6 then the lens is just constantly one half stop off, correct. If 5.6 is really 6.8 I think it is a half stop less light. If this is true then each f-stop should be consistently 1/2 stop off. So I just make the assumption I need to add one half stop to each setting, correct? Please let me know if my thinking is flawed.

Because the maximum aperture of a lens is limited by the lens design, not necessarily by the mechanical opening of the shutter's aperture. The shutter's aperture lever may have travel beyond what the lens can use, or there may be mechanical stops on the lever's travel that are appropriate for the previous lens and not yours. You don't know whether your lens now, is at its widest f-stop when the aperture is as far as the lever can move. Just measure it from the from to figure out what the aperture corresponds to. It's not hard to get an approximate number. You need the apparent diameter as seen through the front lens cell, not the mechanical diameter of the aperture (different lens designs also magnify the aperture by different amounts).

[Mark J]

I think it's good advice to try & measure the entrance pupil for full aperture. Once you know that, you have the starting aperture and know that each stop on the aperture scale will be half as much light, that's the way they are built. If the aperture lever moves from 5,6 to 64 , then there are no 'mechanical stops on the lever's travel'. The case where they would be , is probably on the original shutter for the 360/6.8
ps. If as likely, this lens is actually 350.5mm EFL, then do the f/number calc for that focal length ( eg. for f/6.8 you expect 51.5mm )

I think Andy is more or less correct IF this 5.6 shutter opens to near the full available aperture ( but that's what needs checking )

[neil poulsen]

So what do we think the image circle is about? I assume it is ok for 8x10?

Also, what do we think about the mismatch between the fstops on the lens and the fstops on the shutter? Does it matter? I can just open it up all the way and count backward, correct?

I had this lens. To say it's heavy is putting it lightly. I used to call it my coffee table. (I think that it might actually work for that.) I even tried to backpack with this lens. By the way, did you forget HUGE? The filter size on this lens is upwards of 120mm, if one can even afford a filter of that size. (I recommend Schneider B+W filters from B&H. ) And, good luck finding a compendium lens hood that will work with this lens. (Oh well, a little flare never hurts.)

As for the mismatch between the f-stops on the lens and shutter, check with S.K. Grimes. They might have an aperture scale ready-made for your shutter.

All that said, it should produce good results.

I jumped from this lens to the f8 Scheider-Dagor 14" lens (which I didn't care for), and then to a 355mm G-Claron. These lenses are much more convenient.

[tgtaylor]

I've had this lens for 810 format for 20 or more years now and had SK Grimes build a 120mm to 95mm step down ring ($150) so that I could use all of my 100mm rectangular filters with the lens in my Cokin Z-Pro holder. Granted $150 is a lot for a step-down ring but that is a lot cheaper than buying 120mm filters.

[Andy F]

So right now this is a little bit beyond my expertise. I tried to put it on a lens board. I tightened it with my hands and I could not get it to work. Right now the lens is just flopping around on the board.
I may drive up to SK Grimes to see what they think. How patient would they be with a newbie? Also, how expensive do you think it would be to get this thing to work. I will send pictures.

[Roger Thoms]

Sounds like you may be missing the spacer ring, check out this link. https://skgrimes.com/product/retaining-ring-copal-3/ . I also add that’s it worth checking with SK Grimes on the aperture scale, while they can certainly engrave one for you they may also have one in stock. I recently got a genuine Copal aperture scale from them for a Copal 1/ Fuji 250mm f6.7. You can also check eBay.

Roger