Aviphot vs. "Svema" vs. green x-ray vs. mammography ?

[landstrykere]

I am about to buy more film for use in 13x18/5x7 and 8x10/18x24.
I have still a stock of Fuji HR-U (green sensitive), and two kinds of single-sided Agfa of which one is mammographic, and few sheets of "Svema". X-ray film is becoming harder to find, as medical use switches to digital. I am considering to buy a roll of 70m in 24cm of Aviphot.
I write "Svema" with quotes because the guys of Astrum in Shostka don't tell what they actually sell in custom cuts. It is aerographic for sure. Anyway despite they are cheap, ten years expired Aviphot sells even cheaper, very sometimes.
I like the x-ray sheets because the thickness, and depending what I will capture, the ability to use two-sides or single side emulsion (if green two-sides I remove one side emulsion before use and stock small amounts of these single sided sheets for future use). Aerographic film being thin it's easier to cut, but I insert it into the backs over a sheet of paper. Aerographic also isn't so scratch prone than x-ray. All in all, as for manipulations, I can deal with whatever but of course when less care is required, better.

what I am wondering is if there are big differences in spectrums between these two kinds of orthochromatic films, aerographic and medical.
(as for developers, I typically use metol variants D23-like, sometimes two baths à la Beutler, and otherwise have some of the usual raw chemicals to mix whatever)

[Vaidotas]

I’m using expired Svema from ~ 1990 in 9x12, 13x18, 18x24 format in sheets (not precut aerial film).
Film base is slightly thinner than conventional film.

There is strong variation in quality from batch to batch, quite a lottery.
And the best of it has prominent base fog.

There are some sellers from Ukraine in big auction site with moderately priced offerings but as you said, Aviphot roll has better price performance.

I’m curious about your one side emulsion removal procedure from double sided x-ray film.

[DannL-USA]

Here's a thought, you might consider removing the backside emulsion after the film has been exposed and developed. Just remember what side was the backside. The emulsion will help protect the back of the film from scratches. I'm using the Fuji green also. Started recently developing in PMK Pyro which seems to be giving me good results. I'm new using Pyro. Somewhere between iso 50 and 25. I ran into a lot of problems recently with D76 giving me little spheres all over the x-ray film, which I thought was kind of strange. Had never seen that before. Just some random thoughts.

[landstrykere]

I’m using expired Svema from ~ 1990 in 9x12, 13x18, 18x24 format in sheets (not precut aerial film).
Film base is slightly thinner than conventional film.

I bought what Astrum guys sell as new stock, fresh. The emulsion in 100 iso is what they sell in 35mm canisters. You tell them what size you want and quantity, they cut and package. Here my remaining sheets bough last year. Contact on Telegram, bank wire to a bank account in Kijow.



the point is that you don't know what it is in fact, because Shostka is affected by regular power supply shortages since ongoing Donbass war, and manufacturing lines require temperature stability for proper operation. I know a reseller of they 35mmm canister who asked repeatedly to have a footage (mobile phone for instance) of the facility but they always eluded.
But that's not remains of last soviet stock, it's at least from before 2022.

I’m curious about your one side emulsion removal procedure from double sided x-ray film.

damn simple.
I use plexiglass plates. Ensure surface is clean, no dust, nothing. Tape the sheet with magic tape ie. invisible matte tape, at least 3 or 4 mm edge around. Be sure the tape sticks good, for this with the thumb rub strongly just over the edge. I always put a small piece of tape on the corners too. Ie. no liquid must sneaks its way under the edge of the tape and so pollute the other side.
I put the plate in the shower, pour some domestic chlore, can use gently a wide flat soft brush (laquer finish kind) or toilet paper to rub without pressing. Then rinse. Dry with toilet paper, ensuring tape is dry too, remove the tape. With scissors I do two cuts to create a notch.
On this plate here I do two sheets at a time. A bit tedious but doesn´t take so long either. I do 8 or 10 at once from time to time and store for future use. Clean the plexiglass for reuse.
Or use glass plates, but in case it falls plexiglass won't break anything. After some times, buy a new plate, they are cheap.

[landstrykere]

you might consider removing the backside emulsion after the film has been exposed and developed

it's easier before, chlor washes the emulsion without any effort.

[DannL-USA]

Oh yes, I am very aware. I'm really glad to see that the process caught on. That must've been 10 years ago now. Awesome!

[landstrykere]

Oh yes, I am very aware. I'm really glad to see that the process caught on. That must've been 10 years ago now. Awesome!

I have done both, before and after.. I will certainly not advocate the before way, it requires caution, but for me it's ok I prefer.

Just for fun, the other day I was playing with Caffenol-L (40g. coffee, 10g. ascorbic acid, 16g. sodium carbonate, ioded salt) in stand 1 hr. Here a single side emulsion Fuji HR-U, with other side emulsion washed away before shooting. The damages along right edges are not because the emulsion removal, but manipulations in cutting the 8x10 sheet to make 5x7. I use a guillotine cutter, still it requires attention. Aerial film is easier to cut.

[DannL-USA]

I also cut the film on a guillotine cutter. I have several to do that job, one big and one small. I end up cutting the 8x10 fuji x-ray film for a full plate, half plate, and occasionally a 5 x 7 camera. Since using PMK Pyro I noticed that I haven't needed to strip the emulsion. Still practicing with Pyro. Sadly my time is very limited.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I experimented removing the unsharp side of double-sided xray (the side not facing the lens) many years ago. It's easy to do but pointless for several Alt. processes, such as Carbon transfers. When you remove one side, you literally are cutting the DR in half. Even extended development times wouldn't give me a decent DR. I use flat-bottomed tray for developing, and gentle agitation, D-23 1+1, or Pyrocat-HD 1+1+100 (preferring the former). No scratches. If you are getting scratches, you need to change something in your workflow.

[DannL-USA]

Some scratches were caused from film holders (circa 1910) having imperfect paint in the film inserts. Then there were scratches caused by brand spanking new plastic developing trays. So I now have been using metal baking pans, but will probably turn to glass baking dishes soon. I love glass.