Aviphot vs. "Svema" vs. green x-ray vs. mammography ?

[Alan Townsend]

What I am wondering is if there are big differences in spectrums between these two kinds of orthochromatic films, aerographic and medical.
(as for developers, I typically use metol variants D23-like, sometimes two baths à la Beutler, and otherwise have some of the usual raw chemicals to mix whatever)[/QUOTE]

The HRU green xray film is designed for use with a specific phosphor that is used, which has specific very narrow bands of green lines that it must have best sensitivity to, which a general purpose ortho film does not. I woulld think think the green xray film spectral sensitivity is different, but now much so would be only a guess. I would guess the green xray has better green sensitivity than other ortho films. Looking at a brite light through unprocessed HRU it appears to be very magenta in color, which is likely the ortho sensitizer.

I'm surprised that there are orthochromatic aerial films. I had a K20 US aerial camera that used 5 1/2 inch wide roll film, but never say any US ortho film stocks for that. Just as ortho films are 4-8 times more sensitive than color blind emulsions, pan films are also much more sensitive than even ortho. In aerial photography, where focus is mostly at infinity was fairly large aperatures and fast shutter speeds, that film speed is pretty important.

I currently use 8x10 HRU cut down to 4x5 processed in D23 at 1:7 dilution for 20 minutes. I'm able to get a good density range of about 1.8 with that processing. I do not remove one side, since that would cause other issues, but process 12 sheets at a time in a Doran cut film tank. I use a yellow filter to reduce the amount of light that reflect back off the second film surface, which acts like a halation layer due to its reflectivity. I also shoot some ortho litho films as well, using red construction paper behind the thin ortho litho film to take up space and help anti-halation while being easy to see under red safelight. To ortho litho, red is black, or at least dark grey.

Have fun,

Alan Townsend

[Dugan]

I bought some Svema 100 sheet film...it had some manufacturing faults. I had some difficulty taming its tendency to blow out highlights. It does have some near-infrared response if rated at ISO 1 with an IR720 filter, if is useful to you.

[landstrykere]

I'm surprised that there are orthochromatic aerial films. I had a K20 US aerial camera that used 5 1/2 inch wide roll film, but never say any US ortho film stocks for that. Just as ortho films are 4-8 times more sensitive than color blind emulsions, pan films are also much more sensitive than even ortho.

I made a mistake: Aviphot PE 200 is indeed panchromatic. Yesterday I just bought a ten years old roll:



I was confused because quite some of the soviet Tasma and Svema were ortho for a while. But actually current Tasma 25L and 42L are panchromatic.

I currently use 8x10 HRU cut down to 4x5 processed in D23 at 1:7 dilution for 20 minutes. I'm able to get a good density range of about 1.8 with that processing. I do not remove one side, since that would cause other issues, but process 12 sheets at a time in a Doran cut film tank. I use a yellow filter to reduce the amount of light that reflect back off the second film surface, which acts like a halation layer due to its reflectivity.

I never thought of trying very diluted D23, will try that. I use often replenished D23, I filter out the deposit with coffee filters from time to time. Have played with diverse 2-baths formula also. As for the single side or double side and halation glow I am still undecided, depends luminosity and the kind of scene.

[Daniel Unkefer]

For my two big Normas, I'm using 500 sheets of 8x10 Fuji HRU. And I have 500 sheets of the French 18x24cm Kodak Mammography films, and a roll of the 24cm Agfa Aviphot 200 as well. For Panchro 8x10 I have some olde HP5+, Shanghai 100, Ilford Commercial 8x10. Recently I added 50 sheets of 8x10 FOMA 200 which I intend to push process for highest speed. Right now I am using D23 at 1:1 and also Replenished Straight.

I like using all of these films.

[landstrykere]

I'm using 500 sheets of 8x10 Fuji HRU. And I have 500 sheets of the French 18x24cm Kodak Mammography films, and a roll of the 24cm Agfa Aviphot 200 as well.

what are your thoughts about HR-U vs. Mammography vs. Aviphot? do you prefer one in particular depending you take indoors portraits, natures mortes, or general outdoors, architecture, nature, landscape, sunny or cloudy?

[Daniel Unkefer]

Often I shoot duplicates if I'm not sure which works best. I'm really just getting started with 8x10 again. I shoot a lot in the studio so can shoot multiple film types as a sort of "bracketing".

18x24 Mammo Shortie Sawed Off Norma by Nokton48, on Flickr

This is a test shot (my Shorty Norma) French Kodak 18x24cm Mammo Film, processed in D23 1:1. Taking camera is my new Annie/Avedon inspired 8x10 Norma. I applied 30 degrees of front and rear swing, the Norma original recessed lensboard is sharp all the way across the field. I like how the DOF drops off with the 360mm f5.6 Norma Symmar. There appears to be highlight blooming, which I find kind of attractive. Best thing about this film was that it was not at all expensive. And I have a lot of it. My "Shorty Sawed-Off Norma" has a basic rail cut down, to just accomodate a 120mm lens. Here it is shown with the 47mm f8 Super Angulon, which I am looking forward to using a lot with 2x3 and 6x9. This is not a telephoto camera, but I can easily lift and carry it with one hand without strain. The lowly Star-D tripod is sturdy enough with this setup, given proper time to settle down. I cut both ends off a basic Norma rail with my Lil Machine Shop Bandsaw. So it is now simply a hollow tube perfect length for Field and Architecture.

18x24 Mammo Sinar Norma 300 Xenar Arista No 2 RC by Nokton48, on Flickr

Second test of 18x24cm Kodak Min-R XRay film developed 18 minutes at 60F Straight replenished Legacy Mic-X in Cesco trays. 300mm Schneider Xenar barrel lens f22 Yellow Filter. Four pops Broncolor C171 Beauty Light Contact Print 8x10 Arista #2 RC Multigrade dev. Again interesting how the red flowers go deep black.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Makiflex 150 Xenar HRU D23 Octobox 150 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Plaubel Makiflex 150mm Schneider barrel Xenar 4x5 Fuji HRU XRAY D23 1:1 8x10 Aristo #2 RC Omega DII laser aligned. Dektol 1:2 Broncolor Octobox 150 with frosted bulb and Octobox Supplemental Diffusion. Backround by David Maheu "Tim Kelly Classic".

[Daniel Unkefer]

18x24cm Mammo Norma 121mm F45 18 pops C171 Beauty Light Grid by Nokton48, on Flickr

Testing Kodak Mammography 18x24cm in HC-110 "H" 6.5 mins at ambient. 8x10 Sinar Norma 121mm F8 Sinar Norma Schneider Super Angulon on Norma Vertical Copy Arrangement. Shooting straight down at F45. Broncolor C171 Monolight with Broncolor Blue Pulso Beauty Dish, popped eighteen times with shutter on "B" to build up the density. Contact printed Omega DII with Omega;ite Arista RC #2 Matte paper Multigrade developer. Digital background shot by Tim Layton and was blown up by me at Costco. It was dark red so I guess I should have expected a lack of density on the right. Live and learn. Highlight tonality looks decent to me. 18x24 XRay film is easy and fun to shoot

[waterlenz]

What I am wondering is if there are big differences in spectrums between these two kinds of orthochromatic films, aerographic and medical.
(as for developers, I typically use metol variants D23-like, sometimes two baths à la Beutler, and otherwise have some of the usual raw chemicals to mix whatever)

The HRU green xray film is designed for use with a specific phosphor that is used, which has specific very narrow bands of green lines that it must have best sensitivity to, which a general purpose ortho film does not. I woulld think think the green xray film spectral sensitivity is different, but now much so would be only a guess. I would guess the green xray has better green sensitivity than other ortho films. Looking at a brite light through unprocessed HRU it appears to be very magenta in color, which is likely the ortho sensitizer.

SNIP

Alan Townsend[/QUOTE]



Just within the medical usage there is quite a bit of variation , e.g. blue vs green sensitive. One needs to check out the specifics for each emulsion. See this link for an outlining table:
https://www.plmedical.com/wp-content...ence-Chart.pdf

[Eugen Mezei]

For their double sided films Carestream indicates orientation. The two sides are colored differently. One has to be oriented to the "lens". The emulsions are of different sensitivity and grain.
So which to remove?