tripods and quality

[monochromeFan]

4x5 and smaller

6'-2" fellow here. I need a tripod that can work with a 4x5 camera, ive seen some claims that press cameras can have tripod sockets too.

what are the options in affordable, reliable tripods that a person can aim a camaera at a doorknob, and come back in an hour and the camera will still be aimed exactly as you left it?

[Greg]

Definitely a Tiltall Camera Tripod would do. I believe that the ones offered new now are not as well made as the Tiltall Model 4602 Pro Tripod by E.Leitz, but that's a personal opinion.

People modify the platform atop the tripod to be a little more "heavy duty". Never thought my Tiltall needed this modification till I modified mine... big difference IMO and well worth doing.

[Pieter]

Depends on your definition of affordable.

[Peter De Smidt]

https://leofotousa.com/products/leof...-bowl-and-case

[John Layton]

...but what if someone comes in through that door Seriously, a little breeze could also move that door - so don't use a doorknob for this test!

Depends on the camera and how/where you will use it. For my "super light" 4x5 (Calumet/Gowland) and "minimalist" (primitive diy'd) 5x7 cameras, my Feisol "Tall Traveller" works great, is very lightweight (and less pricey than some other models), and as its name implies, great for us somewhat taller folk (I was also 6'2" back in the day, but have since lost an inch!).

Someone mentioned the Leitz Tiltall - which is a bit heavier but more solid...and these are fairly often found used at very reasonable cost. They also last forever...mine has been with me for nearly half a century and looks like its been used as a sled in a gravel pit - but still works great for anything up to mid-weight 4x5 and 5x7 cameras.

If you want something sturdier and don't mind the extra weight, an old aluminum Gitzo might be just the ticket, with their Carbon Fiber offerings being lighter but a but pricier. But again, deals can be found if you look for something used.

While I used to recommend to those of my students in the market for a tripod that they should try to find one that's at least as heavy as whatever (camera) they will have attached to it, I think that the design of a tripod is about as important as its sheer mass. Tripods with larger leg diameters, and large "spider" dimensions (or whatever they call the top assembly where the tripod legs attach), and a reasonably large top plate to take advantage of whatever contact surface (surrounding the tripod socket) is available on the camera itself - can all make up for a bit less mass. But if you do not mind carrying the weight (or are setting up close to your car or house)...mass is king!

[Daniel Unkefer]

SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

This is my 4x5 location Architectural Camera. I can lift and carry it one-handed, quick to set up. Add a small soft bag for a few lenses and holders, and I'm set. Less is better at this stage for me.

8x10 Sinar Norma Julius Shulman Titlall Setup 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

This is my 8x10 location Architectural Camera. As long as you don't bump it, it's fine and works well.

Hacked Tiltall Tripod No 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Olde Leitz Tiltall, not the black modern one. Modified by me with heavier mounting plate. Not really necessary with wooden cameras, but yes worth doing! Around $100 usually. Leica quality! Inspect beforehand, some have lived hard lives.

[Tin Can]

I always use spikes if field usage

Bought nice ones from China

I don't know how many tripods I have

I know I have 3 LINHOF Heavy Duty and extensions to over 10 feet with huge dolly

and need them

[Joshua Dunn]

I used to tell my students (who were always on a budget) that tripods were worth investing in. I can't tell you the number of times they would buy a tripod for cheap and then have it not meet their needs or break on them in less than a year. I only mention this as you asked for affordable options and that will vary from person to person. Look at this as a "buy once cry once" investment. If you buy the right tripod now, it will serve you for years and years. Buy the wrong one and you'll end up buying one on another couple of years.

Features on tripods vary wildly, what type of leg locks it has, how many sections (more sections mean it can pack smaller but adds cost), maximum height, center column or not, etc. I would spend the time to figure out what features are important to you and then find tripod legs that meet all of your requirements. Then do the same for the tripod head. They do not need to be the same brand. For example I use Gitzo tripod legs and use (depending on the format) use a Sinar head, Linhof or Really Right Stuff.

Depending on where you live you may want to travel to a large store like Samy's Camera in L.A. or B&H in New York. They have (at least the last time I was there) dozens of tripods on display to sample and people to talk to that actually know what they are talking about.

-Joshua

[pendennis]

An earlier post mentioned the Tiltall, and I can recommend it still. I have one and it's as rock solid as any I've used. I also have two others which merit mentioning. The first is an old Vivitar 1321. It's as sturdy as my Tiltall, but a bit heavier to carry. The second is a Slik Master67 prototype. I modified it to accept tripod heads, and added a set of Manfrotto spiked feet.

There are several others which have been sold. One of the most solid is the Manfrotto 475B, and the old Bogen 3036. Both weigh a lot, but are rock solid.

[esearing]

The old aluminum Bogen/Manfrotto 3081 legs. Probably the most robust set of legs I ever purchased and they can be found used. My only problem was weight since I tend to hike to my locations.

I like the FLM LF CP34-L4 I now use for its height for my wooden field cameras. Being 6'2" you will eventually want something at eye level, and there are few tall stable tripods at that height. Save your pennies.