I have apparently one of the small CPE 2+ units and mostly use the 2500 series drums. Have been revisiting a lot of the docs recently after a two-year digital interlude and coming back to film for fun... and leaving the digital "for events" where it fits best. I've run hundreds of rolls and 4X5 sheets thru my Jobo, but the articles on those of us Jobo AND 4X5 users aren't as common as might be otherwise. So picked up a new-to-me Reveni meter and kind of excited again (always a good thing).
Couple of questions for those doing 4X5:
1) Are the Expert Drums really all that much "better" in results (consistent, streakless, less developer requirement, etc) than the 2500 series with the funky flapper 2509 reels? The prices are "mega" and while I've seen youtubes of handrollers and refit of a Uniroller motor to turn the whole thing, there also thee inconvenience of a newer and bigger piece of hardware (though I do have a Uniroller that could be converted).
2) Finley's book and Jobo admonish not to dilute Stock more than 1:1, but given the aeration of roller development 100% of the time, I've wondered whether in fact Stock might be closer to 1:1 than I'd assumed. My own failed experiments with replenished developers and Jobo usage resulted in Jobo's own comments that the effects of aeration in roller development made the combination unlikely to lead to the sorts of results intended with replenishment.... so that led me back to the dilution thought. Similarly, in some places (Jobo and Ilford) documentation suggests cutting development times in using a Jobo. I haven't done that.
3) Finley suggests that ID11 and Jobo development are a great combination. I have a lot of ID11 on hand, a bit of Perceptol, and then still quite a bit of chemistry to make D23, some fixer, and probably the ingredients for a simple Asorbic Acid Stop. I'd been using a water stop and I'm aware there are or were a number of folks who talked me into this on the basis that an acid stop would harm my films, but I've also seen plenty who recommended it for Jobo nonetheless. Much as I admire Pyro in all its varieties, I live in an environmetally sensitive area so that's not likely my first go to... but I'm also confident the recomposed "modern" chems coming out are fine enough to not be incompatible... and offer the sort of consistency I didn't manage to get in playing with Caffenol on the same eco friendly kick. That said, I'm always open to suggestions...
4) Alternative uses of the Jobo: Mostly I haven't tried: Mixing chems (inversions) during Stand or Semi-Stand development and then removing the tank for the "STAND" parts. Some don't use a Jobo for the inversion part either given a proclivity to want to keep that "gentle", but then use it for all the subsequent washes, stops, fixes and clears, etc. I see a lot more folks post pictures giving the equivalent of the EXIF data, but without much info on the actual process. I guess since only Ansel was Ansel.... the rest of us figure "nobody cares".... and while often true... well... less isn't always more.
Thanks for any insights shared. Best to all for a continued beautiful summer here and hopefully wherever you might be!
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