Yes, that was Fred Picker's outfit. I have one that I've been happy with for a very long time. Richard Ritter will still adjust them. If I needed a new meter, I'd probably just get a regular Pentax digital.
Yes, that was Fred Picker's outfit. I have one that I've been happy with for a very long time. Richard Ritter will still adjust them. If I needed a new meter, I'd probably just get a regular Pentax digital.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I bought the Sekonic L-508 when it came out in 1996, I think. It has been reliable and can be used as both a 1 degree spot meter and an incident meter. It will also determine the mid range for the high and low spot readings. And it runs on one AA battery. This was after using Minolta and a Gossen Luna Pro for many years.
Good luck, FUNGUS. Maybe you should first figure out why you "need" a spot meter for the Zone system, or better yet, why you need the Zone System at all.
As harsh as this might sound, it's a great point.Originally Posted by xkaes
In addition to ZS, spot meters are great educational tools for doing scene analysis to learn how to "see" light levels. But so are some mobile phone apps.
To rephase something written earlier:
Yeah, I'd flip it too, and state that, One does not necessarily need to engage the Zone System in order to get relevant usage from a 1-degree Spot Meter. They're great for all kinds of things, including color photography too. But it's different than working with an incident meter, averaging meter, or TTL meter. With black and white film, Spot meters are especially efficient at allowing you to compare very specific points, like where you want you deepest shadow textural values to fall, versus the threshold of texture in the highlights, whether in reference to the Zone System methodology or not. If you find a good condition Pentax digital spotmeter at a decent price, buy it! They're not made anymore, yet are still in demand, and for a good reason.
I'm a Pentax digital spot meter user. Like Drew, I have several, some modified by Zone VI, some not. In practice, there is no significant difference in the readings from the modified and unmodified meters; maybe 1/3 stop now and then - inconsequential.
I'm a Zone System practitioner too, but use it largely because it provides a way to visualize the subject and plan out-of-the-ordinary exposure and development schemes to obtain a desired result. IM-HO, the Zone System's main advantage is as a visualization tool. That aspect of it almost requires a decent spot meter.
I'm happy with my Pentax spot meters, but they are a bit prone to flare when the spot you are reading is dark and the surrounding area quite light. Readings can be skewed by up to a stop in that scenario. Learning to recognize this and compensate has made my exposures more consistent.
Plus, I find basing exposure on a shadow value the most intuitive and reliable method. After that, one can deal with brightness range and alter development times accordingly, but even if you don't you'll end up with a usable negative. Development schemes for N+ and N- developments are frosting on the cake.
Many like the EV scale on the Pentax spot meters, but I get along just fine with a Zone-System sticker on all of mine. I just align the shadow reading with the Zone I want to place it in and there's my exposure; EZPZ. Then I can measure Subject Brightness Range and decide on developments, or check for tonal mergers and decide to add filters, etc., all using the spot meter as a tool
I even read through filters to get my exposures when using them. However, I don't do this blindly; I've tested my more extreme filters with the films I use and have E.I. adjustment factors for them. Still, reading through the various filters with a spot meter will give you some idea of how the filter will affect tonalities. This can be used to prevent mergers or find the filter that will give you the most separation between tones.
Best,
Doremus
While it's not necessary to own a spot meter or use the zone system to make photographs, I wouldn't want to be without the option.
Sometimes, photography can just be about exploring, experimenting and playing, where the only goal is to learn and to have fun.
I'm not really sure why some people seem committed to talking him out of using a spot meter and the Zone system. It's been a good combo for lots of people. You like something else better? That's great...for you.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Are differing opinions really so problematic that a post commenting on one possibly divergent opinion is value-added? I’m sure the OP can decide on what to buy, or not buy, by considering all of the varying thoughts in context to personal need/desire. Peace!
I have a Pentax Digital Spotmeter, a Minolta Spotmeter F and a Pocket Spot.
They all have their place in my camera bags.
The spot meter I have bought multiples of over 30 years is the Pentax.
The easiest for me to use when zoning is the Pentax.
The one I carry with me for landscape photography for the past few years is the Pocket Spot.
Because of its size and spot-on readings.
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