Dust particles

[Tin Can]

When I scan it is always 5X7 or 8X10

I dry them in my DR overnight over sink

As soon as I wake, 3 AM I have V800 running for warmup all night

My film is always very flat as I don't use tubes

Usually 4 8x10 negs as that is what the Gas Burst holds

and soon I will be using a splitter on 8X10 making 8 images on 4 negs

I don't hike anywhere

Everything like food is delivered

[Mal Paso]

My LED Diffusion enlarger head has 2, 1/4 inch layers of plexiglass light table diffuser and most dust and back side scratches disappear.

[Drew Wiley]

I have all kinds of diffusion systems. Minor base side scratches might not be evident, but actual dust on the film will be every time - whether on the film at the time of the shot, or on the film when it's being enlarged. If it isn't evident, then something is way out of focus!

[Alan Klein]

https://www.amazon.com/FocusFoto-Rub...dp/B07B9W8DPF/

I don't know why some have insane dust issues when scanning. I at most have maybe one or two small fibers and 5-10 very small dust spots on my negs. I don't wet mount, I don't even prep the negative, I just slap them on my scanner. Each frame takes 1-2 minutes to mitigate dust at most.

For printing I use the above to get any large pieces of dust I see when loading the enlarger. If they are tough I lightly pick at them with a fingernail until they come off. Once in a blue moon I'll need to completely rewash the neg to get off something stubborn.

I don't have any filtration or mitigation equipment. I did years ago do some woodworking in another part of the basement which caused some issues but I do that out back of the house now.

Black spots on the print mean dust when loading film which is another issue. I do get that sometimes with Grafmatics. If I have a killer shot I usually shoot two negs, just in case.

How does shooting two shots help with dust?

[Tin Can]

I forgot humidity

I run a big humidifier under the SS tank 24/7

No fans either

The HVAC has expensive big high MERV filter

Even on mild day I never open any window

[peter brooks]

How does shooting two shots help with dust?

Presumably one neg may have an unlucky dust spot (or spots), while the other may not.


Not related to loading film but I used to have a real problem with dust until an old time photographer recommended using distilled water for the final rinse. I now use it for both the final rinse and the dunk in photoflo.

I also dry my negs inside a shallow, wide cardboard box (negs leaning at an angle against the side, so emulsion side shielded), with a sheet of newspaper covering the box on the top (diagonal cross wire of cotton thread to support it).

Doing these two things cut down the dust enormously.

[Tin Can]

Always Double-Tap

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How does shooting two shots help with dust?

[Alan Klein]

Always Double-Tap

I'm new to LF. What's the best way to double tap?

[Csholl]

There are really only three options : 1) Spotting the print itself and going insane; 2) Spotting the scan and going insane in front of a screen; or 3) working clean to begin with, every step of the way, and keeping your peace of mind. I enlarged a neg yesterday which is going to need more spotting than the others I printed; and I recognized it as the one from a 120 roll I had to change in the field during a breeze full of pollen and so forth. Broke my own rules; but it was an exceptional picture. Not a spotting nightmare by any means, but just more of a chore than usual.

Hi,

thx for the info. When I scan on the computer I can just use software to remove whatever spots are on it. I mean moreover using an enlarger in a darkroom. As I understand it you can use ink tones to touch up spots. Other than that I think I'm ok...

[Drew Wiley]

Traditionally a brand of dye called Spot Tone was used, which worked very well. There were several shades including Basic Black and Selenium Brown which could be mixed together as needed. Spot Tone was bought out by Marshall Retouching, but the original product is now no longer made. I hope my set lasts the rest of my life. I haven't tried the specific Marshall alleged substitutes yet. And there are dry ink brands available which I do have, but don't like as well. What you want to do is get a few really good quality Kalinsky sable art store spotting brushes in tiny 00000 or 0000 and 000 sizes (forget camera store spotting brushes). You dilute the dye with water just like watercolor pigments, and build up the dye gently on the affected area, and not all at once. A clear plastic dozen egg container makes an excellent mixing pot. Use a bigger water color brush (inexpensive is fine) to mix the dyes with water - just a little at a time. It doesn't take much. Practice first on prints you don't intend to keep. I use a very high quality desk lamp on a tilted drafting board surface, and wear reading glasses.