Antique Brass Flange: Problem with cleaning off Gobbets Of Solder

[Jim Noel]

Put the PAckard on the front and use ton the 4x5.

[Drew Bedo]

What I have now is too big for that. It has been mounted to a 2D sized lens board and is reedy for the lens pictured in this thread.

Another option for the future: Get an adapter lens board for the 2D and install a Packard shutter on thet. Then mount my different barrel lenses to boards that can be interchanged on the 2D.

A front standard shutter for the Zone VI is also a project for another day . . .and it will probably be a Thornton Pickard roller blind shutter.

[Jim C.]

I am timid about working on the flange and afraid of damaging the optical tube or the rear elements.

How does this type of lens disable? I know the rear elements will unscrew, but how does the tube itself come out? If the focus sleeve can be isolated i t will be easier to work on.

Drew,
You would need to remove the focusing knob part ( the part you're missing screws for ) that has the pinion gear that
mates with a small gear rack on the inner tube. It's that rack and pinion mesh and the length of the rack that locks the
focusing tube in. That will allow you to slide the tubes apart, there may be velvet fabric strips
on the inside of the outer tube, if SKGrimes replaces those they ought to be glued in if I recall correctly.
Make a note of which side of the lens the knob is on the focusing gear, I don't recall if the gear is helical ( angled teeth ) or
just a straight spur gear.

Jim

[Drew Bedo]

Jim: Thanks for that.

[Steven Tribe]

Just discovered this additional query about your Petzval. I have just had this same problem with a soldered-on lens flange. The usual reason is that the original flange has been lost and the only replacement available is slightly oversized.

I have done this a couple of times in the past and have never been completely satisfied with the methods used. It is absolutely necessary to remove the sleeve from the barrel/lens cells. It is just the single gear cover screw which keeps them together.
My current method is to use a ceramic oven top (not induction, of course or gas (discoloration likely)). The flat underside of the flange is a good heat trap and separation occurred after a very short time. My barrel was from 1843 and flange thread on the barrel was on extra section also soldered on. Fortunately, the melting point of the assembly solder was higher than DIY flange job. I enclose a few photos - the original ugly solder, the result after heating and the new well-fitting flange and messy oversized flange. I have yet to remove the final traces of solder, which will be mechanical.

This lens looks like it has come typical projector/horizontal apparatus, probably the later if the Waterhouse slot etc. look original. Nikkei plating is ubiquitous for USA and UK a barrels, although the French stayed with brass. If you remove the gear cover, you may discover that the turning wheel axel originally extended out both sides - one side has been removed (perhaps) to replicate a camera Petzval.

[Drew Bedo]

I have gotten the lens back from S.K> Grimes.

The glass is clear. The Flange is clen of crap, whatever it was. The flange now unscrews from the lens.

The folks at SK Grimes were communitive and responded to my questions. They did not over-promise or over charge (in my opinion).

The lens looks great and will be mounted to the Packard shutter for shooting.