For me this was the other option. The 1070mm F14 is a compact size (due to the f/stop) as is my 760mm F14. This was a really possible option, except for the asking prices.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOMDuT_orfQ
The cat halfway through the Youtube is hilarious. In attack mode. Mustn't scratch those plastic gloves
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
My CL version, that I use on my Lotus 14x17
Beautiful Marco
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14500420517...Bk9SR47wjsbpYQ
Another 1000mm F16 Apo Ronar has popped up on Ebay. The second one of this version I have seen in thirty+ years. And this one has a mounting flange. But one is enough for me
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
But you could make a twin lens camera with it! Which I seem to remember your having done before....
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
LOL Thanks Peter.
Well the lens is here. That was quick from the UK!
Oren,
It weighs 11 pounds according to my bathroom scale. I can support it with one hand. Could be used for working out.
My plan is to send it to S.K. Grimes, they have a great track record for me, making annodized CNC'ed lens flanges. The one in the rear measures an outer diameter of a bit over 118mm's. I'll need a ring for front, and a custom tophat ring for the back. There is plenty of room both to fit on Sinar Norma lensboards, I do have a few with giant already cut holes. Glass is beautiful to look through looks fine. So I'll inquire with Grimes. They have made a few really big ones for me. The rear flange will also need a tophat, so the rear cell is exactly forward enough to clear the shutter blades on the Norma Shutter.
SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
1000mm F16 Apo Ronar1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr
SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr
Turns out I have enough spare parts to build this prototype. It's held together by tight adjustment, and it's very solid. WOW it's heavy I mean a real brute. I used Gaffer Tape from B&H cut with razor blade to specific widths, and the lens is not going anywhere and it's solidly supported at this point. Light cracks and leaks around the lensboard holes are pretty much plugged up, so the lens appears to be light tight at this point. I prefer to protype with various types of tape, before making (or have something made) as far as rotating this into the equipment usuage. This was fun to build.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
I remember when I first built something similar. I had it on a big Gitzo....I was in for a surprise when I tried to raise the column. I really hope you have a good counter-weighted camera stand. I'm sure you do.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
8x10 to 5x7 Norma Special Bellows 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr
Norma "Special Bellows" arrived from Keith at Custom Bellows, goes 8x10 to 5x7, then to regular 5x7 to 4x5. Very Very stable. This combo is in the original Norma catalog. Shown with my 360 Componon enlarging lens. Mounted to the Norma board with a Durst enlarger "mounting cup" on the back. Repair Guru Ken Ruth suggested to me that I get all the Componons, that was a great idea. They were cheap at the time and quite usuable. The tripod is a FOBA C40 which is also in the original Norma catalog for use with the 8x10 Norma. SK Grimes made the tophat section of the lensboard with their CNC, copying original specs and then annodized it. I'll need something similar on front and back of this new deal. I have three C40 FOBA tripods, one has a rising triple center post. I think I will try that on the front of the camera, the center post will help as far as hooking front and back sections together straight and parallel? We will see. Mr. Wolf set his camera up outside hundreds of times under windy conditions so I'm using the old photos as a guide. Also he used binoculars to establish camera positions.
Peter I also have an olde Plaubel Peco Profia stand will will support the front end of a car.
So basically this will be the -back end- of the camera. Front end is ^^^
Last edited by Daniel Unkefer; 2-Aug-2023 at 07:50.
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
Congratulations!!
If I remember correctly, the minimum focusing distance with my CL 1000/16 on the 14x17 Lotus (about 1200mm bellows) is 8m / 24ft - give or take.
It's been a long time since I sold my 1000mm Apo-Ronar, so I don't remember the flange size needed. Most of these lenses used standardized flanges with threads of 90mm, 100mm, or 110mm that translate across Apo-Ronar and Apo-Nikkor offerings.
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