How can I find a copy of Gordon Hutching's Book of Pyro ? Is there a PDF of it?

[Bernice Loui]

This was the book that began the interest in Pyro developers back when it was first published about 1991. Public notification of the book was in View Camera magazine about that time. Since then been using PMK on-off depending on image goals.

Think this book was the catalyst that renewed interest in pyro based B&W film developers.

Still have the first edition copy,
Bernice

There were two editions of it; the later one is preferable with respect to at least some current films. It's an excellent book if one wants a quick overview of pyro in general, along with formulas, and the usage of PMK in particular. Of course, a host of special pyro formulas sprang up in its aftermath, especially of the pyrocat rather than pyrogallol variety. That shows just how influential Hutchings' little book was at the time. PMK is still my favorite developer.

[Michael R]

Drew, it was really John Wimberley who started the pyro revival and influenced Hutchings/PMK.

There were two editions of it; the later one is preferable with respect to at least some current films. It's an excellent book if one wants a quick overview of pyro in general, along with formulas, and the usage of PMK in particular. Of course, a host of special pyro formulas sprang up in its aftermath, especially of the pyrocat rather than pyrogallol variety. That shows just how influential Hutchings' little book was at the time. PMK is still my favorite developer.

[bob carnie]

I have been using Gordon Hutchings PMK and stain method since he introduced the book. I adapt a two bath dev which splits the developer time in two each bath is 1000ml and I use the exhausted
second bath for the final stain.

[paulbarden]

I use PMK exclusively for my salt print negs made on FP4+. Its irreplaceable, IMO.

[Daniel Unkefer]

I almost always made PMK+. I'd mix up a batch, then at the last minute of mixing, I would use a flat toothpick to get a "good" scoop of Amidol. This turned the PMK with psychedelic rainbow colors which changed until thoroughly stirred. I'm starting to use PMK+ as I have a good of mix and Amidol. It really does increase shadow speed about a 1/3 of stop. Sometimes that helped. It's very economical; my first bottle lasted nearly ten years.

[Andy F]

Hi,

Sorry. I guess I am a little slow on responding to the threads. I would like to thank everyone for such good information. I don't post much so I did realize people respond so quickly. The reason I would like to read the book is because I am interested in using Pyro. I just finished reading two of Steve Anchell's books and he makes reference to it. Pyro looks really interesting but I know it can be toxic. I just want to use it correctly and see what effect it will have on my images. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You

-Andrew

[paulbarden]

Hi,

Sorry. I guess I am a little slow on responding to the threads. I would like to thank everyone for such good information. I don't post much so I did realize people respond so quickly. The reason I would like to read the book is because I am interested in using Pyro. I just finished reading two of Steve Anchell's books and he makes reference to it. Pyro looks really interesting but I know it can be toxic. I just want to use it correctly and see what effect it will have on my images. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You

-Andrew

Andy, if you’ve read what Anchell has to say about Pyro developers, then there’s not a whole lot more to be gained from Hutchings’ book. Yes, it goes into more detail, but little of it is essential.
As for handling the Pyrogallol - it’s only really dangerous as a powder, so wear gloves and a dust mask when measuring/mixing. There’s no need to be overly fearful about handling Pyro ingredients.

[Doremus Scudder]

Andrew,

You don't need Hutchings' book to get going with PMK. PMK is fairly easy to use, just wear nitrile gloves when developing and make sure to be neat and clean up well. PMK will stain just about anything. You can get it pre-mixed, in kits with powdered chemicals or just get the ingredients separately.

If you end up mixing it from powder (e.g., PF kit) or mix it from scratch, do wear a mask (they're ubiquitous these days anyway) and try to keep airborne particles to a minimum. For instance, I always snipped just a corner of the pyrogallol bag in the kit and emptied the contents into the water with that corner held just below the water's surface. I then rinsed the bag to get any residue. Really helped with dust.

Hutchings recommends an after-fix bath in the used developer in his book that has been found to be unnecessary and even detrimental, since it just builds overall stain. Eliminate this step if you use his instructions.

There is a bit of contention about whether to use a wash-aid with PMK negatives. Hutchins and others maintain that Hypo Clearing Agent, etc., removes some of the stain. I quit using a wash aid with negatives when I started using PMK years ago. Others, more recently, state that wash aids have no effect on the stain. I haven't tested yet, but am happy not using a wash aid for negatives anyway.

Other staining developers, like Pyrocat, work in a similar way to PMK, but the stain is a bit different color. I haven't used them. PMK, etc., are not magic bullets, but the grain-masking effect of the stain and the highlight rendering of PMK made it a winner for me. If PMK ever becomes a problem or difficult to obtain, I'd turn to Pyrocat or Xtol.

Best,

Doremus

[Chuck Pere]

Here's a link to the Formulary PMK tech info: https://stores.photoformulary.com/content/01-5060.pdf

It still shows the afterbath being used but most people have dropped that. I've always just bought the mixed liquid set.

[Andy F]

Andrew,

You don't need Hutchings' book to get going with PMK. PMK is fairly easy to use, just wear nitrile gloves when developing and make sure to be neat and clean up well. PMK will stain just about anything. You can get it pre-mixed, in kits with powdered chemicals or just get the ingredients separately.

If you end up mixing it from powder (e.g., PF kit) or mix it from scratch, do wear a mask (they're ubiquitous these days anyway) and try to keep airborne particles to a minimum. For instance, I always snipped just a corner of the pyrogallol bag in the kit and emptied the contents into the water with that corner held just below the water's surface. I then rinsed the bag to get any residue. Really helped with dust.

Hutchings recommends an after-fix bath in the used developer in his book that has been found to be unnecessary and even detrimental, since it just builds overall stain. Eliminate this step if you use his instructions.

There is a bit of contention about whether to use a wash-aid with PMK negatives. Hutchins and others maintain that Hypo Clearing Agent, etc., removes some of the stain. I quit using a wash aid with negatives when I started using PMK years ago. Others, more recently, state that wash aids have no effect on the stain. I haven't tested yet, but am happy not using a wash aid for negatives anyway.

Other staining developers, like Pyrocat, work in a similar way to PMK, but the stain is a bit different color. I haven't used them. PMK, etc., are not magic bullets, but the grain-masking effect of the stain and the highlight rendering of PMK made it a winner for me. If PMK ever becomes a problem or difficult to obtain, I'd turn to Pyrocat or Xtol.

Best,

Doremus

Thanks for all the info. It was really helpful. I am curious about one thing. Why Xtol? What about it do you like?