YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/andy8x10
Flickr Site: https://www.flickr.com/photos/62974341@N02/
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And as Andy was working on this, it so happened I was doing more or less the same...
https://tinker.koraks.nl/photography...ro-developers/
I tried PYRO 510 7 years ago
I dislike thick goo, very hard to measure accurately
and messy
goo bad
Tin Can
Andy,
I cannot thank you enough for this video. I had an encounter with a; well, let's call him a bully that tried to take me down over using acidic fixer with staining developers.
Even though I posted three examples of negatives with beautiful stains from pyro HD & 510 fixed with an acidic fixer (one negative was ten years old), he still tried to make the 'myth' case.
Best to you,
Darr
I have used all manner of fixers--sodium thiosulfate-based F-24, Kodak Fixer, Zone VI Fixer (which I'm pretty sure was F-24), Ilford Rapid Fix, Sprint Fixer, PF TF-4 and TF-5, and others that I can't recall at the moment--with stained negatives from a number of staining formulas over many years and I've never noticed any issue with the stain.
Thank you, Andy, for finally (and, hopefully) putting this myth to rest!
Funny thing is, all one needs to do to avoid the whole issue is go back to the originator of all the “modern” staining developers - John Wimberley. He started the “pyro revival” in the late 1970s, and has always used Ilford Rapid Fixer. Even Hutchings, who’s PMK was based on Wimberley’s developer, and who’s Book of Pyro is full of classic pyro hyperbole and questionable information, used a plain old acid fixer. Etc.
The alkaline process thing has largely been promulgated by the ‘Cookbook guys, and one of those guys would appear to have a stake in it (TF-4 anybody?), so, you know...($)
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