Thanks all for answers!
So, basically, UV light should be avoided for silver gelatin printing. In that case, my UV exposure box is useless
Or, half useless — I can make another top side of the box where my UV lights are attached, and attach the light more suitable for silver gelatin, so I can interchange them depending of if I'm printing silver or pt/pl.
I assume this would affect the look of the print, depending of which filter color I use.
Sorry for the confusion, I'd use silver gelatin chemistry and paper. I even have some Ilford Multigrade warmtone fiber and RC paper around the house that I never used. I have a room that is completely dark during the night, but it's a living space, not a permanent darkroom, so I can set it up temporarily during the night, and disassemble it after I finish the work. That's the reason I don't want to buy an enlarger, because it's usually bulky, and not the thing that you move around all the time.
Do you make your pt/pl curves using QTR? And then use those transparencies for silver gelatin printing?
My UV is in the box, so I don't see it direct, pretty much never.
As an absolute beginner, I'd try avoiding coating my paper at this stage. I'd rather use anything that's already available on the market. As I said, I have some Ilford Multigrade papers, but I can buy anything that would work. In my case I have contrasty XRAY negatives and I'm always fighting to get lower contrast
I have very similar unit, also built by Tim Layton's design. But I have UV lights instead. I'm curious, does that light you have there spreads evenly on the paper? How large you can print? I have 16x20 contact frame, but in order to print that big, I don't think one bulb in the middle will cover the whole paper. So far, I printed only pt/pd in 11x14 size.
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