Contrast control with Adox Lupex

[RustBeltEcologies]

Thanks, Michael! This was exactly the answer I was looking for. I will follow these steps when I'm back in the darkroom. Can I ask why microwave it? Is that just to further dry it?

[Mark Sampson]

I believe TD-31(S-S) and Ansco 120 are quite similar. I've used both but decades apart; both gave 'about' a one-grade contrast drop. Which may or may not meet the OP's needs.

[Michael R]

Yeah it’s just a quick way to dry test prints. I always evaluate test prints, work prints etc this way - especially when I’m looking at small exposure adjustments to highlight tones. It helps avoid dry-down surprises. It doesn’t necessarily have to be perfectly dry.

Thanks, Michael! This was exactly the answer I was looking for. I will follow these steps when I'm back in the darkroom. Can I ask why microwave it? Is that just to further dry it?

[jnantz]

What does your film look like ?
I ask because usually negatives for silver chloride paper have to have a density that is regular paper. Thin negatives might give
really fast exposures and contrast that is difficult to manage. Im not sure if you have been to michaelandpaula.com
but they have a section devoted to development and exposure of silver chloride papers like Lupex, Lodima and Azo.
I found that giving a little extra exposure and extra development instead of the opposite gave me great negatives to
contact print on grade 3. I use and used ansco130 as my FILM and paper developer, and shuffle processed it for about 8 1/2 minutes at 70-72ºF
I use a 300W reflector bulb that is about IDK 2 1/2-3feet above my printing area, and my exposures are between IDK 15-20 seconds, I'm able to burn and dodge as well.
Good luck with your printing, silver chloride is great stuff!
John

[Chuck Pere]

You might need to put your light on a dimmer to get usable times when flashing the paper.

[RustBeltEcologies]

Thanks everyone for your replies! I had a chance to spend some time in the darkroom yesterday testing out some of what was discussed in this thread. And there was one variable that I hadn't considered and am embarrassed to even admit this.. but I live on Lake Erie in an old farm house built in the mid-1800's. It's already very very cold in my darkroom and I hadn't factored in how the temperature would affect the look of the prints. After being frustrated trying out a couple of suggestions from this thread without any progress, I decided to crank the heat in the darkroom and use the heating pads that I use for seed starting under my developer tray. I went from developing the paper in cold working solution at the minimum amount of time recommended, to developing at exactly 68 degrees and testing out different times in the developer between the minimum and maximum amount of time recommended and this has made a huge difference. Because I was developing to completion, I had never considered temp/time having such an impact. Simple lesson learned.
Thanks again for everyones input!