What film to use for first test shots

[Bernice Loui]

Frankenweenie, more possible..


Bernice

Looking forward to see what they will charge for Mummy 400 8x10.

[nitroplait]

Everything indicates that it is Foma. It is not cheaper than Foma, not compared to EU prices, that is.

[jeannicolas]

Everything indicates that it is Foma. It is not cheaper than Foma, not compared to EU prices, that is.

Had no idea Foma was that much cheaper in Europe! In the US, looks like it's ~$1.10/sheet for FPP Frankenstein (if you buy 25 sheets), and $1.60/sheet for Arista/Foma (if you buy 25... a bit cheaper if you buy 50). So FPP's offer is definitely interesting even if it's the same stuff.

[nitroplait]

Had no idea Foma was that much cheaper in Europe! In the US, looks like it's ~$1.10/sheet for FPP Frankenstein (if you buy 25 sheets), and $1.60/sheet for Arista/Foma (if you buy 25... a bit cheaper if you buy 50). So FPP's offer is definitely interesting even if it's the same stuff.

50 sheets of 4x5 Foma is 40€ including 19% German VAT (give or take a Euro depending on ISO). That’s current pricing from FotoImpex.com, Germany.

[nitroplait]

To make it more comparable to US pricing which is normally discussed without VAT/sales tax:

A box of Foma200 4x5 - 25 sheets: €20,97 = US$21.40 (before Tax)
A box of Foma200 4x5 - 50 sheets: €33.53 = US$34.22 (before Tax)

Prices from Fotoimpex.com, exchange conversion by Google. July 7, 2022.

[Tin Can]

I have 8 packs of Fujiroid 100 and 1 BW left

I find I can nail my studio test shots of humans with 2 exposures, using studio strobes and a good meter

I use stand in mannequins

I then shoot REAL film at 1/2 box speed

X-Ray at 25-50

Since my Fujiroid will be gone soon I also have trays ready and film in the soup within minutes

DR is a bedroom and studio a tall living room

I bought this run down OLD Home specifically for photography

Finding the tall ceiling was hard

[Tobias Key]

I would use a film you already have experience with. Otherwise you are testing a film and a camera at the same time. If you use a new film and the exposure seems off how will you know if it's the shutter, the exposure, or your development? Far better to use something tried and true like HP5+ if you have experience with it.

[Alan Klein]

I would use a film you already have experience with. Otherwise you are testing a film and a camera at the same time. If you use a new film and the exposure seems off how will you know if it's the shutter, the exposure, or your development? Far better to use something tried and true like HP5+ if you have experience with it.

That's good advice. Make sure it;s not expired either. Introducing issues when you're trying to determine if an old, used camera is working properly requires non-expired film you're familiar with. Otherwise, if you have bad results, you won't know what's causing it. Keep things simple. Avoid confusing yourself.

[Alan Klein]

I'm personally quite glad that I started out with high quality films instead, that I planned to stick with. Some of my very first b&w shots turned out to be "beginner's luck" classics which have been reprinted numerous times over the years. Lots of misfires early on of course. But ya never know. It's hard to be a competent lumberjack if you scrimp in investment early and try to learn cutting down trees with a fingernail file. I believe in learning with the actual tools and ingredients you'll need in the long run; otherwise, a lot simply has to be re-learned or re-invested, or you might get discouraged in route.

Another reason is that a lot of my earliest view camera and sheet film work was done in rugged remote terrain hard to get into again; and the lighting is never quite the same anyway. Some things you only get one crack at. It would have been counterproductive, given all that effort, to gamble with so-so film. But at least I did already know how to tray develop b&w sheet film, since I used it for color film contrast masking at least a decade before getting into b&w photog per se. Likewise with view camera technique; I had already learned that for sake of color film. But even in that case, many of my very early color shots were truly keepers.

Just dive in. Sure, there will be plenty of mishaps to the learning curve. But ya gotta start somewhere. To practice loading and unloading holders in the dark, you only need a single piece of film, even voided film.

I agree. No one should sell themselves short especially if you used cameras for a long time. I just started LF two years ago. I bought my usual film, Velvia 50, and some new stuff Provia and Ektachrome and Tmax 100 BW. Sure I blew a few shots forgetting to remove the dark slide or missetting the exposure. But I also got some keepers that I'm pleased with. Use a good film that's not expired. Go for it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/alankl...57715763486212
https://www.flickr.com/photos/alankl...57714124881023

[Mitchellsig]

Thank you everyone for your advice. I have been using Harman direct positive paper with some good results. I did order a box of Frankenstein 200. I am also going to order a box of Ilford HP5 Plus.