Yes, that adhesive flocking MAY work
BUT I think the shiny chrome plated hooks need a little careful bending
Where are you?
Some camera shops still exist and could help a lot
Yes, that adhesive flocking MAY work
BUT I think the shiny chrome plated hooks need a little careful bending
Where are you?
Some camera shops still exist and could help a lot
Tin Can
The way you describe it, you won't be changing the position of the ground glass relative to the film plane when if you use a light seal between camera back and body. So, a nice, soft, light-tight gasket should do the trick easily. Also, planing/sanding the surface of the back flat so that it fit flush would work too (but may be a bit more trouble).
Best,
Doremus
I had a whole plate Sanderson with a warped backframe. To straighten it, the frame was put in a vice (wood clamp) over a few weeks and was tightened a little bit further every two days; the warped part was kept moistened (with a damp cloth) when it was held in the clamp.
I have one like this:
I use this:
https://www.createforless.com/Kunin-...pid151536.aspx
I usually find this at Michael's craft stores or JoAnn's fabric stores. The stiffened felt is better b/c it is thicker--about 1/16" uncompressed. For better adhesion, paint some contact cement on the wood surface and let dry for 15 min before applying the adhesive felt.
I suggest you cut 1/4" wide strips and completely cover the exposed rear frame (or just the top and bottom 2-3" of the sides where the gaps are plus all along the top and bottom) as well as the edge of the bellows frame where it meets the inside of the rear frame for maximum light-tightness. You can also stick some on the inside of the spring back metal retaining brackets if you need a tighter fit.
Of course, then perform a flashlight test in a dark room with an unloaded film holder in place to confirm there are no leaks.
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=1#post1497547
Cheers,
Michael
Last edited by Michael Roberts; 26-Apr-2022 at 18:51.
The problem with this “tool” is that you can only “fix” 2 of the 4 corners in a single operation. Never all 4 corners because of the limited depth.
In addition, no matter the force applied, the frame will always “spring back” to some degree- even with multiple attempts.
I have done this removal of warping with a moist atmosphere, laying the frame of 12x16” plate holder on a solid slate tabletop-with four 10 kilo weights on the corners.The best tip is to “over compensate” for warping by placing distance pieces under the corners that don’t need backwards movement
True, however it worked with my frame since only one 'leg' had warped, the other 3 were straight.....
If you have to straighten the whole plate holder, you would need something like the stretchers used for the vintage tennisrackets, but then bigger of course (just an idea - never tried this myself):
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