This is a great demo from KEH by Matt Day
I never tested this as I am using slow sync with old shutters
Short and quick, very interesting
https://youtu.be/sRLTMF7dMM4
This is a great demo from KEH by Matt Day
I never tested this as I am using slow sync with old shutters
Short and quick, very interesting
https://youtu.be/sRLTMF7dMM4
Tin Can
Also why Hasselblad 500 "V" series with leaf shutter lenses became SO popular with wedding and similar photographers and why the Hasselblad "F" focal plane bodies were far less popular. In lens leaf shutters allows electronic sync at all shutter speeds. This offered a means to control lighting ratio of ambient light (sunlight, indoor lighting and etc) to electronic strobe. This plus a 200w/s Norman 200B plus a good incident flash meter were the basic tools for this kind of image making circa early 70's to late 80's and sort of into the 90's.
Back in them days, multi kilowatt/second studio electronic flash units with a large variety of light modifiers and all related offered the best means to control lighting for sheet film view camera images.
This is much about lighting and lighting ratios and how they can be controlled using the various tools available.
Bernice
Hoping there will come a time that will allow me to used multi 1200w/s portable electronic flash units with a variety of light modifiers and 5x7 Sinar and a variety of lenses for a community portrait project in the future.
I too hope for safe air soon
I prefer to photograph people
I am setting up a push cart for my porch and yard
Big camera, big film etc
Like wheelbarrow as tripod
If I get strong maybe the 1/2 mile to tiny village!
Tin Can
late 1980s annual report photographers loved to use mixed ( hot and strobe and ambient ) and drag the shutters to give that warm and fuzzy look
Old flash commandment;
Aperture controls the flash exposure, shutter controls the ambient light exposure...
Steve K
Per the video the OP linked to, the video was concentrating on TTL flash. I never use it personally; not because I'm against it or those who do use it. My technique is to set the flash power to the camera settings. I choose the aperture for OOF; and then choose the shutter speed for the intended exposure and ISO. Using a flash meter, I adjust the flash power to match the camera settings. I always get just what I was creating for the photo. Also, this technique allows for bracketing if I think the project needs it (which never occurs).
Yeah, I know....I'm old
~Jeff
"it is better to overexpose slightly than to under expose." Ansel Adams, The Negative
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