Printing-Out Paper?

[nmp]

Yes I've discovered that POP had a reddish tint to it.

Yes, but you get wonderful chocolate browns with selenium toning:

https://niranjanpatel.zenfolio.com/p790410975

I had bought a pack sometime in the mid-2000's, perhaps one of the last ones before they pulled the plug on it. Had it stored in the refrigerator for more than a decade before I had a chance to use it. It was still good. Last I checked about a year ago, it is still good.


:Niranjan.

[peter schrager]

I've been making my own POP paper for several years now. it's not that hard or complicated. you should definitely get the books that Denise Ross published.
she made 2 books. the Light farm and the the hand coated silver gelatin book. the formulas are all in the books.
I do use fixed out baryta paper with varying degrees of success but Fabriano Artistico and Folio paper work very well. I use a dry coat method vs. wet that you can also use. you will need a good hot plate stirrer; some quality pyrex and common sense. I actually have my own formulas that I had researched in a photo library many years ago. the most expensive part is the silver nitrate but it works out to pennies per sheet as I usually can coat up to 30 10x12 sheets per emulsion.
when photo paper that I like the best; which is Foma 131 is costing almost $200/box you can quickly understand why I like POP paper. the other reason is that I'm not stuck in the darkroom. I'm only there to develop my film and you could even skip that if you shoot digital and make a digital negative.
Lastly I find it to be a very organic way of doing photography. I'm using the sun and some silver nitrate and some salts to create art.
the Chicago Albumen site still has the info for processing Centennial paper. I like to Toine with gold; also not that expensive if you follow the directions
anyone here is welcome to PM me for more info or start a conversation.

[stephenmcateer]

There is a resurgence of making your own POP papers. You can buy kits from Photographers Formulary or Bostick and Sullivan that make it relatively easy. Wolfgang Moersh also has many formulas and toners that let you achieve what ever you want - his latest is Lobotype which I am trying.
There is also Rollie RBM3 Emulsion variable contrast or Liquid Light which you can coat any paper with. There are also many formulas for making your own emulsion.

Warning - once you go down this rabbit hole you will need lots of time, energy, and money - its addictive.

Salt printing gives a redish/chocolate to plum-Chocolate brown image.
Iron salts give more neutral gray to warm gray tones
Platinum/Palladium vary from warm to neutral
Liquid emulsion is fairly neutral to warm

Most can be toned to achieve a different color tone.

Thanks for the information about toning. I had forgotten about Bostick & Sullivan. I think I follow Wolfgang Moersch on Flickr. [And I need to watch the money as you say...]

[paulbarden]

Does anyone know if Printing-Out Paper is still available anywhere?

Can't seen anything on Google.

Thanks.

Isn't Adox Lupex a POP paper? Its a silver chloride contact paper, supposedly an equivalent of Kodak Azo: https://www.freestylephoto.biz/search?q=lupex

[BrianShaw]

Isn't Adox Lupex a POP paper? Its a silver chloride contact paper, supposedly an equivalent of Kodak Azo: https://www.freestylephoto.biz/search?q=lupex

No... that's an old-fashioned contact printing paper. The difference is the contact printing paper is, both, chemically developed and fixed whereas POP does not require chemical development.

https://dictionary.archivists.org/en...out-paper.html
Printing Out Paper: Photographic paper in which the image is formed through the action of light alone.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/stati...ry/07-0110.pdf