A lot of great advice here. Do not give yourself limitations, especially not in the beginning. The more movements available the better. Get a plastic torpedo level, cut off the ends with a hacksaw leaving the two glass bubble ends. In most landscape situations the back ground glass should be level and vertical. The cameras that lack movements on the front standard can get that from tripod head adjustments. The best camera is the Sinar (they are available for a lot less than they were) There is a Sinar handbook, worth looking into (probably twenty bucks). Even with 35mm landscapes the camera is level and the back is (film plane) is true. That way stopping down serves you best.
The most fun way to learn about your camera's movements is to get a chess set, set it up conventionally and not. Place a figure on the table and one on your sofa and see if you can get them both sharp. The polaroid back was a gem in its day. You can cut down b&w photo paper so it fits in your film holder, that keeps your learning curve's costs down. My first camera was a Calumet monorail, it gave me shots that I'm still proud of. I don't have a Sinar but have used them in studios that I worked in. The Sinar Handbook is very valuable regardless which camera you choose. Others have mentioned the fine work of Dr. Scheimflug. That is a point acheived when the film plane, the subject plane and the lens plane intersect. It is not only vertical but horizontal or even at another angle relative to the horizon. You will also need a good loupe and patience but its worth it. Have fun. bk