Digital IR

[jon.oman]

That looks like a good system, Ari.

Anyway, I did the profile thing, and then I processed out another photo from the other day.

Overall, I think it looks better.

[sanking]

Thanks, Ari. If I understand rightly, that's for getting a color image in LR, right? Since I only do BW photos with IR, I don't think that'd help me. What I'd like is a better view through the viewfinder while I'm photographing. A custom white balance in the camera helps, but it could be better. Switching the picture control to Monochrome removes any cast in the pictures taken, but not the view in the finder before and while a picture is taken. It's a firmware issue. When I click on the I menu, which just brings up an on-screen menu on the camera, and I click 'monochrome,' the image through the finder (and rear screen) turns black and white, but only while the I menu is active, and the menu takes up 1/3 of the screen. As soon as I dismiss the menu, the image through the finder goes back to color, even though the images taken appear as BW using the image review on the camera.

Hi Peter,

I use IR pretty much only for monochrome images, and only process from RAW files in Camera Raw. However, for actually shooting I select a Camera Effect that allows me to see the image more or less as it may look once I finish processing the RAW file. What I see is of course only a JPEG image that serves only the purpose of allowing me to get a good idea of what I can do in Camera Raw in processing the RAW file. How the image on your camera actually looks is a bit camera specific but the process is similar with both Sony a7r cameras and Fuji GFX.

Once the image file is in Camera Raw I adjust all of the components of the image to create my personal interpretation of the scene. This may look like what I originally imagines, or as I work on the image file it may take creative paths that reveal themselves as the work is in progress. Once I have finalized a close approximation of what I want I sometimes choose to run the image file through some method of HDR as in some cases this can enhance certain tonal values of the image.

At a later stage, if I decide to actually make a print I will usually make a carbon print, and at that stage I choose a specific color or shade that may make the image more interesting than just a plain black and white.

Sandy

[Peter De Smidt]

Thanks, Sandy. I did the same thing with my D600, i.e. set the picture control to monochrome. The file was still a raw RGB file, but image review was monochrome, which helped making various judgements. I can do the same thing with the Z9. I just wish I could change the real time view through the finder to BW. The camera can do that when the menu for Monochrome is pulled up, but then as soon as a choice is made, it returns to color.

[Peter De Smidt]

The 760nm filter arrived today. It's getting dark, and the Z9 was able to autofocus once, but it was really slow. I'll have to see what thing are like when it's brighter out. At the moment, it seems like a 720nm or less filter would be much easier to use.

[sanking]

The 760nm filter arrived today. It's getting dark, and the Z9 was able to autofocus once, but it was really slow. I'll have to see what thing are like when it's brighter out. At the moment, it seems like a 720nm or less filter would be much easier to use.

I suspect that the best filter for a camera that has not been converted to IR or all spectrum would be a 580 nm filter. This wavelength allows a lot of red light to pass, which should make it easy to focus, but typically a lot of IR will also pass. If you process in Camera Raw you can eliminate the Red to get a true IR look. This filter is also favored by those who plan to swap colors (Red>Blue) as the Red is much stronger than with 720 nm.

Sandy

[Tin Can]

Thanks Sandy!

I suspect that the best filter for a camera that has not been converted to IR or all spectrum would be a 580 nm filter. This wavelength allows a lot of red light to pass, which should make it easy to focus, but typically a lot of IR will also pass. If you process in Camera Raw you can eliminate the Red to get a true IR look. This filter is also favored by those who plan to swap colors (Red>Blue) as the Red is much stronger than with 720 nm.

Sandy

[jon.oman]

I suspect that the best filter for a camera that has not been converted to IR or all spectrum would be a 580 nm filter. This wavelength allows a lot of red light to pass, which should make it easy to focus, but typically a lot of IR will also pass. If you process in Camera Raw you can eliminate the Red to get a true IR look. This filter is also favored by those who plan to swap colors (Red>Blue) as the Red is much stronger than with 720 nm.

Sandy

The only expensive filter I purchased for my full spectrum D810 from LifePixel was the 'Super Color Infrared' filter. It is 590nm. It has all the advantages you list here.

Here is a comparison provided by LifePixel: https://www.lifepixel.com/infrared-filters-choices

[Tin Can]

Jon, next SS check will buy that filter

Thank you!

The only expensive filter I purchased for my full spectrum D810 from LifePixel was the 'Super Color Infrared' filter. It is 590nm. It has all the advantages you list here.

Here is a comparison provided by LifePixel: https://www.lifepixel.com/infrared-filters-choices

[Peter De Smidt]

Thanks, Sandy. I expect you're right.

I just tried the 760nm filter in bright sun. The Z9 was able to autofocus through the filter, but it took a couple of seconds. Unfortunately, the exposure indicator stops working at shutters speeds longer than 30 seconds. Yeah, I don't know why. At EI 64, F/8, and 30s, the indicator was off the chart low. I tried 60 seconds just to see. Increasing exposure in LR 3 stops, the file looked pretty good. The dark tones would be ok for a super contrasty look, but.....I don't want 1 minute exposures in bright light. With an R72 filter, I'm usually in the 4-20 second range, which is generally ok for me. I'm going to be on the lookout for a 95mm magnetic filter at 720nw or less, as I want to get a Z14-30 lens. 82mm would work for most things but would likely vignette at 14mm on the lens....but maybe that's ok. I could bite the bullet and get a threaded filter in 95mm for Kolarivision or Lifepixel, but I'd rather not.

[jon.oman]

Thanks, Sandy. I expect you're right.

I just tried the 760nm filter in bright sun. The Z9 was able to autofocus through the filter, but it took a couple of seconds. Unfortunately, the exposure indicator stops working at shutters speeds longer than 30 seconds. Yeah, I don't know why. At EI 64, F/8, and 30s, the indicator was off the chart low. I tried 60 seconds just to see. Increasing exposure in LR 3 stops, the file looked pretty good. The dark tones would be ok for a super contrasty look, but.....I don't want 1 minute exposures in bright light. With an R72 filter, I'm usually in the 4-20 second range, which is generally ok for me. I'm going to be on the lookout for a 95mm magnetic filter at 720nw or less, as I want to get a Z14-30 lens. 82mm would work for most things but would likely vignette at 14mm on the lens....but maybe that's ok. I could bite the bullet and get a threaded filter in 95mm for Kolarivision or Lifepixel, but I'd rather not.

Does someone make a threaded to magnetic adaptor?